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Intake

 
Nick49
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 02/14
Posted: 02/18/14 09:23 AM

Got a team g intake with a spread bore mounting flange are these rare or just a discontinued part was looking to find the intake gasket for it and all I find is square bore?  

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wayne712222
V-6 Camaros rule!
Posts: 90
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 02/18/14 10:06 AM

which carb are you mounting??

a spread bore quadrajet or thermoquad???

or a square bore holley, edelbrock demon or

lay a square bore gasket on the mounting surface.. in many cases the dual mounting intakes are slightly modified with a smaller opening to allow direct mounting of a square bore carb without adaptors. but there are also products like this.


Edl 2732

Edelbrock 2732 - Edelbrock Carburetor Adapters
Carburetor Sealing Plate, Open Center, Square Bore Carburetor, Spread Bore Manifold, .063 in. Thick,

Part Number: EDL-2732  

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Nick49
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 02/14
Posted: 02/18/14 12:19 PM

Sorry guess I should have said the manifold  has a spread bore base I've never seen a team g intake with a spread bore. The engine I took it off had a  square bore to spread bore adapter on it and edelbrock carb just was wandering if this manifold is any good has the ports for egr and heat riser to.  

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wayne712222
V-6 Camaros rule!
Posts: 90
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 02/18/14 03:57 PM

is there a part number somewhere on the intake?????

8000,  8004, or a different number????  

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Nick49
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 02/14
Posted: 02/25/14 07:30 AM

No that's my problem there's just a firing order of course and the team G logo on the back of the intake in font of the distributor Confused  

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Nick49
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 02/14
Posted: 02/25/14 07:32 AM

No # on top or bottom can't figure it out frustrating  

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Nick49
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 02/14
Posted: 02/25/14 07:33 AM

There's NO # on top or bottom frustrating  Crazy  

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wayne712222
V-6 Camaros rule!
Posts: 90
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 02/26/14 09:03 AM

take a picture.. upload to photobucket... paste link here.  its free..

the steel plate and gasket i posted above is designed to work with situations where the square bore carbs have vacuum leaks around the base gaskets on spread bore manifolds..

you might have an early unit that they did not think of putting part numbers on..

Fel-Pro performance Carburetor Mounting Base Gasket Part Number: 1901

 

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Brent Samuels
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 2
Joined: 04/14
Posted: 04/22/14 09:50 AM

I have a problem.  I have a 400 small block.  I took the intake off last weekend.  Upon pulling it off the previous owner had used some kind of glue to seal the ends of the intake.  After cleaning thoroughly went to put the intake back on applying new gaskets applied seal on watermarks.  Put the rubber extra that flex sends with the gaskets ...used good amount of black seal.  When I started cinching it down slowly the rubber implants started pooching out the ends.  Is there an easy fix to this?  

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Brent Samuels
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 2
Joined: 04/14
Posted: 04/22/14 09:50 AM

I have a problem.  I have a 400 small block.  I took the intake off last weekend.  Upon pulling it off the previous owner had used some kind of glue to seal the ends of the intake.  After cleaning thoroughly went to put the intake back on applying new gaskets applied seal on watermarks.  Put the rubber extra that flex sends with the gaskets ...used good amount of black seal.  When I started cinching it down slowly the rubber implants started pooching out the ends.  Is there an easy fix to this?  

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wayne712222
V-6 Camaros rule!
Posts: 90
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 04/22/14 08:12 PM

pull the intake back out..   some blocks have been machined.. this reduces the height the cylinder heads are bolted on.. so the bottom of the intake squeezes the end gaskets out.

with the intake off..   clean the top rails on the end of the block with some brake clean.  i use either black silicone.. .. clear RTV.. or Grey Ultra silicone..

a bead across the end rails and set the manifold directly into place without moving it around..


hint... i was a professional mechanic.. i keep several adhesives all the time..

either 3m black super weatherstrip adhesive or permatex black super weatherstrip adhesive..  a 3m rep ask me which one i liked better.. i told him with a smile.. the 3M takes 4 days to get off my fingers. the permatex takes 3 days..

i clean the area with cheep autozone brand brake cleaner spray.. some others make me sick..  

i glue the intake manifold side gaskets into place with the black super weather strip adhesive..  with loops around the coolant passages..   i normally hold them in place for a short while.. like 5 minutes with a pair of short bolts..  or nuts on bolts.. just enough to stop them from moving..  it won't take long..


if i am going to use silicone on the end rails.. instead of gaskets..  i run a bead of silicone across the rear rail.. then up both sides near the end of the side gaskets.. a small loop of silicone around the coolant openings..

then i run the bead across the front.. again up the sides and around the coolant passages..

i then set the intake on.. get ALL the bolts started.. but NONE tightened.. and there is a small shop towel wedged barely into the distributor opening..  you don't want to wedge the rag under the rear rail of smear the silicone back there with any big bunch sticking out the bottom..

with the bolts all started a few threads.. i start in the middle of one side.. tighten a little.. then go across.. i go back and forth usually in an X pattern going tighter and tighter until i have gotten all the bolts down snug.. i then continue with the torque wrench.. i forgot the spec.. 20 or 25.. i will have to look it up.. i try NOT to remember specs.. so i have to look them up..

i usually start at the lowest torque setting and then increase 5 pounds .. per trip around the bolts...

then one last trip in a circle instead of an x pattern..

i hate loose intakes..


by the way.. do you have an HEI distributor..  did you set the crank and cam to #1 tdc compression stroke..  so you can drop the distributor in.. get it seated on the oil pump shaft.. yes.. you will have to either pull the distributor and use a long screw driver or bump the engine around and reset the #1 TDC compression with the #1 spark plug out..

once the timing mark is at the base timing spec.. turn the housing to align the pointed pickup coil with the pointed reluctor..  if you line then up perfectly thats where the HEI will fire the spark off.. so you can dead stick time the engine..  

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