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2000 vette sound when starting

 
msreis95
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 2
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 11/03/13 05:37 PM

I have a 2000 Vette that recently started making a sickly raddling/sweeking sound when I first start it about every 3rd or 4th time starting.  It usually lasts a few minutes at idle until I hit the gas pedal a few times and it idles normally. Its not really a low pitched sweek like a bad or loose belt, but a louder more noticable sound.  Does that sound like maybe a bad idler pulley or tensioner?

*UPDATE* The noise has been intermittent and I was having trouble getting it to do it for about a week.  I heard about trying to spray the belt with water to see if the noise stopped for a second and also to try moving the tensioner pulley while it was making the noise to see if that stopped it, but it did'nt.  Then something strange happened...normally I would let it idle, hitting the gas occasionally until the noise stopped, but this time I just shut off the car and the noise persisted with the car off. I took it to a local repair shop (not someone that specializes in Corvettes) and they first said it was the starter and a bad relay that was making the starter spin after the car started and when it was shut off.  They later said it was not a relay, but the control module near the passenger side floor and said it would need to be replaced/sent to Chevy to be reprogrammed.  Before spending $1000 on this plus the cost of a new starter and install (another $600 and suggested) I thought I would check to see if anyone had any ideas or suggestions?  Does this sound like a correct diagnosis?

Read more: http://forums.corvettefever.com/70/9562797/c5-corvettes/sickly-sound-when-starting-my-c5/#ixzz2jR6hGGgj  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 06:41 AM

lets take a look at some TSBs...

and before spending any money like that..

most computers can be REFLASHED while installed with proper tools and TRAINED TECHs..

that really sounds like it might be inflated...

but hang on .. let me look at the wiring diagrams..

sorry for the late response.. i missed this..  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 06:41 AM

lets take a look at some TSBs...

and before spending any money like that..

http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/10/001006iS.html

there are a bunch below this batch

Automotive Recall and Technical Service Bulletin Titles for 2000 Chevrolet Corvette V8-5.7L VIN G.

TSB Number & Issue Date      TSB Title
04006C FEB 06    Recall - Electronic Steering Column Lock System Defect

TSB Number & Issue Date      TSB Title
05081 FEB 06    Campaign - Steering Column Lock Warranty Extension
01044 JUL 01    Campaign - Electronic Steering Lock Malfunction


TSB Number & Issue Date      TSB Title
10-00-89-010C JUL 13    Locks - Key Code Security Rules, Applications (Canada)
12-02-32-002A JUN 13    Steering - PS Pump Noise, Leaks From Hose/Gear/Pump When Cold
02-07-30-052I MAY 13    A/T - Oil Cooler Flow Testing and Flushing Information
08-07-30-026B MAY 13    A/T - Slight Movement in PARK on Cold Start Up
02-08-98-002D MAY 13    Body - Hem Flange Rust Repair Information
11-00-90-001B MAY 13    Engine - dexos 1(R) and dexos 2(R) Oil Specs/Information
03-08-48-006I MAY 13    A/C - Window Defroster Contact/Tab Repair Information
99-04-20-002H APR 13    Drivetrain - Information on Driveline Clunk Noise
09-06-04-026G MAR 13    Engine Controls - Non-GM Engine/Transmission Calibration ID
00-03-10-002G MAR 13    Wheels - Chromed Aluminum Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
99-08-51-001C FEB 13    Body - Paint-less Dent Repair Process
10-08-45-001D FEB 13    Electrical - Ground Repair Information
06-08-43-003D FEB 13    Wipers/Washers - Windshield Wiper Performance Information
00-03-10-006I JAN 13    Tires/Wheels - Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
08-08-46-004A NOV 12    Electrical - Aftermarket Devices May Interfere With OnStar(R)  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 07:01 AM

get a friend... or one of the harbor freight little plug in amp meters that plug into the fuse socket or a test light...

monitor the mini fuse in position 14.. in the dash board fuse box..  that is the cranking fuse... you should ONLY get power there when the key is held in the cranking position...

if your ignition switch or ignition lock cylinder is hanging up..  that may stay on and keep the starter engaged...

this is the first cheep free easy to perform test..  to make sure its NOT an ignition issue...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb3eb6

print the third diagram down.


you will want to print the second diagram on this page

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb3e00



i will have to look at where the theft deterent relay is.. as that could be giving you an issue...  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 07:10 AM

hmm...


021 **193601 RELAY,STRTR THEFT DTRNT(5-WAY MALE, BLACK, CODE 7233)(BLACK)(USED W/CONNECTOR 15306045 W/O BRKTS 5-WAY MALE)(9.277)
Replaced by: **177233

the starter theft deterent relay has been UPGRADED...

2000C5 21Istheftdeterrentrelay Zps14d02e7b

right hand floor... #21 is the theft deterent relay  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 07:49 AM

these are the diagrams

2000C5alarmwiring Zps53bee1ef

2000C5alarmstartingdiagram Zpsbdd9bb38  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 08:03 AM

it's SO RARE that a starter hangs up in the ON position anymore..

in fact... find fuse 14..  preposition the fuse puller tool on it...

start the engine. and if the starter stays engaged.. pull that fuse... see if the noise goes away..

this can be done without a tester...  and there should be a fuse puller already there in the fuse box or on the door..  this will tell you if the ignition switch is hanging up or some wire is crossed or shorted before that fuse...


i would also identify the relay... start the engine and have somebody pull that relay... see if the noise stops..

i wonder if the replacement relay has BIGGER CONTACTs so it does NOT hang up in the cranking position..


go to GM parts department.. make sure that you have copied down the part numbers above.. including the superceeded partial.. and the NEW relay should have the partial superceeded part number on the box...

if your car was in a flood... either inside.. where the passenger foot well got some water.. or outside where the water came up around the car and some leaked in...


if your carpets are wet.. that's an indicator that there is water or moisture damage..

you might also need a heater core.. as those can leak.. once in a while.. they should drain out under the car.. but .. anything is possible.  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/05/13 08:18 AM

i would also want to monitor the YELLOW wire into the theft deterent relay socket.. with the relay REMOVED..

verify that its ONLY getting power while the KEY is in the crank position...
do you notice that the yellow wire also goes thru the neutral safety switch or the clutch pedal safety switch.. both of those also have power for other circuits that can short across to the yellow wire and keep your starter engaged..


change your relay first..

there are 4 wires into that relay socket..

a THICK RED from maxi fuse #52.. this should have power all the time..

a THICK purple wire.. this goes to the starter motor..to engage it..

a yellow and black wire.. fairly thin compared to the red or purple wire.. this comes from the BCM.. the BODY control module..

you MAY ONLY TEST THIS YELLOW AND BLACK WIRE with a digital volt meter.. or a Computer safe test light.. touch it with a conventional test light and you will burn out the 800 buck BCM...

and the YELLOW wire from the ignition.. and thru the neutral safety/clutch pedal switch..


and.. lastly...

i am almost sure that BCMs can be reflashed at some skilled mechanic shops and GM dealers..

there are REBUILT versions available..

do not turn in your core.. until you have verified the repair...  and that everything that is controlled by the PCM actually works..  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 11/06/13 07:48 AM

after a NIGHTS sleep...

i really DON'T think. that the BCM is the cause here...

i think the RELAY is stuck or Hanging up.

or something is keeping power applied to the YELLOW wire into the theft deterent relay...


spend the 20 or 30 bucks on the SUPERSEDED part number above.. and install it.. see if that fixes the problem..

then go into your testing at the relay socket..


why...

the YELLOW wire only has POSITIVE voltage when you have the ignition KEY in the CRANKING position ...

NOT IN THE RUN position
unless something else is cross feeding voltage into the circuit or the ignition lock cylinder is hanging up... preposition the fuse puller on fuse 14 and yank it while the noise is happening.. or monitor the voltage..  there should ONLY be voltage there when the key is in the CRANKING position..



the BCM supplies GROUND if the alarm system approves..

so it cannot hold the relay in the ON position..
unless there is positive power coming down the yellow wire...



please... let us know what you find... there are hundreds of other C5 owners who are curious about this issue...  

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msreis95
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 2
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 11/08/13 05:51 PM

Wayne,
Thanks so much for all of your input on an issue that has me stumped.  I'm going to follow your advise from the above messages and will let you know how things go.
Thanks again,
Mark  

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