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Big Block In a C4

 
76Skylark
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/14/14 01:17 PM

Hi all My Name is John,  I came here from CHP. so I want to see what it Takes to Put A 454 into a c4 chassis, I know most of the Basics but if someone here has done it You Have the knowledge I am Looking for. Don't care about the electrics or or Inj. or carb or it should be an LS or LT. just What did you have to do to get it in and then tell me what you did to get it to Run. My friend Forrest Aka. Wayne will help(hopefully)with Details.Saw Pics of the Ligninfelter(sorry mis-spelled)Install so It can be done cleanly,but how about Headers, Belt drives,Little things that Go wrong Lol. Thanks in Advance.  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/14/14 06:01 PM

i was thinking about the cluster.. the electronics needed . just a few to keep that working.

i have seen an article on installing a 4L80E in a C4..
the selection is kinda limited because of the torque arm attachment to the tail housing..

say.. you don't have a 4+3 model do you with the doug nash 4 speed and the overdrive.. that could be a LOT of fun..


the speed sensor in the transmission sends signals directly to the cluster so as long as you have either a 2 pulse or 4 pulse per revolution vehicle speed sensor it will work the speedo..

hang tight john.. somebody will have an answer for you in a few days.. if i don't find it first..  

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76Skylark
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/15/14 09:35 AM

thanks for the response wayne.No on the 4+3. The c4 that I mentioned at CHP that had been Modded used Mechanical Gauges. that would be My fix Also,Had I done this 20 years ago I would have considered Factory like Install, I am Not doing a resto as this car is too rough. As for torque arm senario.. Bell Chassis down the road in WoodStock,10.5 Outlaw/Dragradial builder,replaced the dana rear with a 9"ford in A guy's Vette,I also would do that and then all else is common rodder stuff, I also Still like a 200r4 If I stay with an Auto. Can't Afford the 5 and 6 speed tranny's of today but a good 'Ol Super T-10 is fine with a Big Block. I belive Most Hot Rods today with a torque arm are Mounting them to a cross member under the trans.
I am looking Forward to your search results as I am finding very little info.  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/15/14 11:12 AM

http://forums.carcraft.com/70/681300/general-car-craft-technical-discussion/c4-big-block-installation/


http://www.corvettefever.com/featuredvehicles/corp_0402_1991_chevrolet_corvette/


start with those...

still not enough info...  

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wayne712222
My first time was in a Chevy
Posts: 143
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/15/14 11:18 AM

http://forums.carcraft.com/70/679503/general-car-craft-technical-discussion/572-in-a-c4-corvette/


One post said Hot Rod magazine did an article on this swap several years ago (1997?). Gist of it was:

- use stock small block engine mounts/brackets fficeBlushffice" />>>

- use GM oil pan 14091356 with Mark IV big block >>

- use as-delivered pan with Gen 5 crate engines, they come with pan 10240721. No mention of Gen 6.>>

- use '65-'70 big block Vette short water pump and corresponding accessory brackets (factory serpentine system won't fit), modify as required >>

- clearance is especially tight between crank pulley and steering rack >>

- use a '91-'95 LT5 heater core case (passenger side valve cover hits stock heater core case) >>

- driver's side valve cover hits firewall inboard throttle cable pass
through, modify VC as required >>

- use small distributor cap >>

- use '70-'74 big-block Vette exhaust manifolds or custom headers.

Then I found this on the BB - C4 swap:

I have worked on several of these swaps now and I’m in the process of getting ready to do another one, here’s what’s needed:>>

Steering rack mounts cut and rewelded 3/4"-1" farther forward (that of course means the power steering pump lines/steering shaft, need to be extended 3/4" also);>>


Small notch (starting at rear and going 3" forward from rear edge X 3/4"deep X 5" wide works well in rear top surface of (K) frame cross member to clear damper and pulley) (if you use an internally balanced big block with the 6.75" dia. damper you can most likely skip the notch but with the 8" dia. damper its necessary, and some oil pans will also require the back 1 1/2 of the (K) frame to be notched at an angle sloping to the rear to clear them so you’ll probably need the notch of some kind anyway)>>

> >

(and yes before you ask you could shim/modify the motor mounts up to get the clearance, but that would slightly raise the weight center and slightly affect the handling, and that also makes the windshield motor and distributor clearance a bigger problem, a 1985 blazer wiper motor can be modified for greater clearance on the valve cover and swapped in to gain valve cover clearance)

Air conditioner shrouding fiberglass on passenger side footwell around the air conditioning on the firewall needs to be modified for clearance, (the fiberglass cover from an LT5 makes this easy--evaporator housing cover)

1971 bbc Vette exhaust manifolds (or custom headers) and all brackets/pulleys (mods needed here) (see the post on building your own headers).  Oil pan needs to be only 7.5" deep max.

3" hood scoop unless you run a low rise intake and carb or a low height efi system.>>


For a step by step instructions with pictures get a copy of the August 1998 Vette magazine article (starts on page 34) it helped quite a bit the first time.

Otherwise it’s almost a drop in deal, but keep in mind that you’ll need a bigger radiator, the trans will not last too long with that amount of torque, and it may not pass emission testing.>>

> >

A small size starter is needed, and your windshield wiper motor needs to be replaced with a much smaller one, I don’t remember where we got them, but a little measuring and a trip to the salvage yard took care of that problem, and no, tall valve covers don’t work well!

btw install the short block then add the heads with it in the car its FAR EASIER THAT WAY than trying to install the long block

BTW the earlier cars like the 1984-86 (I’m not sure what years exactly) don’t have the heavier forward frame bracing above the steering rack that makes this swap more difficult to do! I have worked on this swap on the 84, 85, and 86 cars so I know they work fine, the later cars like the 1992 with the heavier forward frame braces above the steering rack look like they will be more difficult but still do-able with some extra work, btw there’s a guy at ARIZONA SPEED AND MARINE that has one you might want to talk to.
 

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76Skylark
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/16/14 01:44 PM

Wayne, I talked to the Man at AzS&M and asked him for More Details and to Post it On CHP.You and I are the Only one's here talking so over there It may Intice some more Brain Activity.  JP.  Ps I will still look in here to see if someone else has an Interest.  

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76Skylark
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/21/14 11:33 AM

This is a quiet Forum.... Any one Know if the Grand Sport on the Home page has the Shinoda Body Kit(looks like the one on My C4)  

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