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65' 327 small block-

 
jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 02/27/11 07:27 PM

Remanufactured Carter AFB-now vapor locks/boggs down and quits-won't start after about 20 min.  Any suggestions?  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 02/27/11 09:50 PM

a few things...

there have been a LOT of problem with fuel pumps and clogged fuel filters lately..

does your car have a heat riser valve in the exhaust pipe where it bolts to the manifold...  why.. when these freeze up.. it blocks the exhaust on one side.. forcing it through the exhaust passage under the intake manifold causing the carb to overheat and boil the fuel....



which intake do you have... the factory intake????? aluminum or iron???

is this the carb mounting gasket you used for your AFB...



there should be a thin stainless steel shim plate that has all the openings this does except the big long smile... that goes first onto the intake .. this goes between the steel shim and the carb...   it protects the base of the carb from direct exhaust gasses...


can you do a full flow test on the fuel pump????

take the fuel hose loose at the carb...  disable the ignition coil primary so it cannot spark...   extend the fuel hose into a clear plastic soda bottle.. 2 or 3 liter..  have somebody crank the motor for 10 seconds while you watch the pulses of the fuel into the bottle...   it should have nice even pulses of fuel.. not smaller and smaller.. that would indicate the fuel filters inline.. intank.. are clogged and restricted...     the fuel pump check valves can also be clogged with debris...

you can use a vacuum / fuel pump pressure gauge like this..

Fuelpumpvacuumtester

hook it to the carb side of the fuel pump.. does it hold pressure???  3 to 5 pounds.. is expected...

its a pain.. but hook it to the suction side of the fuel pump..  have somebody crank the motor.. does it pull over 20 pounds of vacuum and hold it...

while under the car.. look at the fuel pump area closely.. are there any signs of fuel pump vent seepage.??? where the diaphragm is starting to leak.. it will pump fuel out the tiny vent hole for the first few seconds of the engine running..

i would also advise. taking an old speaker from something.. breaking the magnet off the back... sticking the magnet to the side of bottom of the fuel tank..  this will pull any Red dUST to it..   the red dust is magnetic..  the magnets will stick it to the inside of the tank...  to keep it out of the carb.. pump and lines...  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 02/27/11 09:52 PM

these are all normal things that get checked when a engine stalls after running for a while...  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/01/11 04:43 PM

Thanks Wayne-I'll give these a shot-I'm starting to think it's the fuel pump-There was absolutely no smell of fuel in the carb after attemped starts-What about a higher pressure mechanical fuel pump?

Also-Is the in-line filter the one at the front of the carb? Where is in-tank filter located?

S/F, J  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/01/11 10:21 PM

most cars have a strainer on the end of the fuel pick up tube.... inside the tank....

its the white thing on the end of the pick up tube near the float...




as for getting a higher pressure mechanical fuel pump.. at that point.. you will need to install a fuel pressure regulator to stop the increased fuel pressure from pushing open the needle and seats causing the carb to flood...

some cars have a fuel filter inline.. i don't know about the 65 models...

but the fuel lines are steel... galvanized.. as it the tank... and they can rust...

you don't have an isolated problem...   but doing the full flow test.. at the disconnected fuel line at the carb will spot problems...

i had another friend .. his car would not go over 25 MPH..  when i did the full flow test on his car...  the first and second pulse of fuel were nice and full... the third was smaller.. the forth was almost non existent .. the rest was just a drop each time...   it should have been full pulses of fuel each time....

i was wondering about it... i put my hand vacuum pump on the line from the tank...  i managed to pump 24 inches of vacuum.. on the line from the tank...  it took about 30 seconds to drop to 0...  eventually i got some fuel.... i managed to use a speedometer cable core with a power drill to drill through the sediment to open the line until we replaced it...

do the full flow test as described... i have only been doing this for about 30 years..  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/02/11 06:41 PM

Thanks Wayne-Will do-I'll keep you posted-S/F, J  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/06/11 04:22 PM

Wayne-If your out there-HELP!  Pulled the old fuel pump-it appears to be bad (the pump arm is wobbly with lot's of side to side movement.  So, I have a new pump ready to go on.  The problem is now to get the cam to move up in order to get the arm underneath it.  The cam rolls smootly, but I can't get it to slide up-Any help?  Thanks, S/F, J  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/06/11 04:42 PM

i have a easy way to install it...

pull the first spark plug... drivers side... bump crank around till you get compression from the number one hole....  move crank till timing marks like up.....  

you can also pull the cap... and see which way the rotor is pointing.. but i know that its all wrapped in shielding..

you can also pull the number six spark plug.. but then you have to turn the crank one more turn to bring it up to the compression stroke of the number one...  

this is the proper location for the fuel pump installation...

disconnect the battery..

pull the engine oil dipstick... stick it straight down through the fuel pump opening in the block.. (so its touching the top outside of the opening and the bottom inside of the opening)  wiggle it infront of  the pushrod...    now.. with the gasket glued tight to the fuel pump face.. i normally use some black superweather strip adhesive..  you can slide the fuel pump in.. pushing the lever into the dip stick...  this will push the pushrod back allowing you to get the fuel pump in.. then pull the dipstick from the opening..    this works really well.... i have not found an easier way... the dipstick end is flexible... and is perfect for this job....

positioning the crank timing marks... to 0 TDC>..   you  can see if the push rod can be retraced with the dipstick.. if not.. turn the crank ONE turn.. see how far it goes back..

warning... DO NOT INSERT a finger tip into the opening.. the push rod will CRUSH your finger tip...

post how it goes....

the reason to disconnect the battery.. the dipstick goes through the hole straight down from the top...  right behind the alternator on some models.. not a place you want to start throwing spark at.. with the fuel lines open...  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/06/11 05:52 PM

Wayne-Do you mean that in order to get the cam to slide up the engine has to be cranked a little.  Another words is the position of the engine cam keeping the fuel pump cam/lobe from sliding up-I appologize, I'm a pilot not a very good mechanic.  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/06/11 09:33 PM

the fuel pump pushrod rides against a round but off center lobe on the cam shaft...

the cam turns once to two turns of the crank...

the distributer turns once to two turns of the crank...

the fuel pump lobe on the cam is at the proper location for fuel pump installation when the #1 cylinder is ready to fire...

so.. when the crank damper marks line up .. the push rod will either be at maximum extension.. or minimum extension...

at maximum extension.. the push rod is pushing against the lever and making it impossible to get the fuel pump in as unless you are an arm wrestler.. you are not strong enough to counteract the spring..


bring the timing mark on the damper up to the timing pointer..

can you retract the pushrod with the tip of the engine oil dip stick..    should back up into the block about 1 inch...

if its  less than that..   you might want to turn the crank ONE time..

i have since found i can change a chevy fuel pump from under the car.. in some models.. in under 10 minutes...

the dipstick trick is neat.. as you don't have to pull it out until you have gotten the bolts started..  

i try to cover a lot of forums..  i have about 4 or 5 that i post at often.. and about a dozen that i check for activity that might need my input.. and i do this just because i am bored .. and this keeps my mind active...  ever set down at BUR???

ever had to fly around the storage companys flag pole ball coming in on runway 15 in from the north????  i have some stuff stored there.. seen 737s main gear miss that flag pole by less than 6 feet...   somebody has gotten close enough to break the ball on top of the flag pole several times..   GA pilots have lifted a wing to fly over it..   cannot  miss it.. its got a big flag on it..  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/07/11 03:03 PM

Wayne-It wasn't me at BUR!-No I've been there many times-retired airlines and USMC pilot-Got it, thank's for the ampflication.  I just wanted to make sure it was not something I had done.  I am replacing all the fuel lines into and out of the pump this time.  I told the guys at the shop it did not appear to be a vapor lock but they insisted the pump would not fail w/less than 500 miles on it.  But when it quit the last time, I was steady state at about 40 and it simply bogged down and died.  Would not start after an hour cool down and I could not smell any fuel in the carb.  When I pulled the pump out the arm was wobbly (Left and right and the spring had popped out.

Once the lines come in I'll reinstal and let you know.  Thanks again for all your help.  S/F, J  

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jacaviation
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/11
Posted: 03/12/11 05:28 PM

Hi Wayne-I've cranked the engine (1-2 second burst) several times attempting to find the spot on the cam where the fuel pump lobe will ride up.  I still can't get it to move up-any ideas?  S/F, J  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/12/11 07:16 PM

find the timing mark on the harmonic damper...   move it to the timing pointer...

that is going to be down or up...   if it won't move up...  turn the motor exactly one turn of the crank...  it will move up at that point...

it only moves about 1/2 an inch...

you might have to use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip its sides to move it up...


there was another forum post where the push rod would not move... seems a prior mechanic had the problem that the push rod would not stay up.. so they had taken a chisel and dented the fuel pump push rod...  this held it in place... but also prevented it from sliding freely...  

this is all you have to take off to get at the fuel pump pushrod...

warning.. to reinstall this plate...   you do have to at least put the 2, 3/8 bolts in to hold it in place when installing it.. as there is some play.. and you can tighten the lower bolts and have the plate cover the upper holes...


order a new push rod.. most parts stores have them in dorman.. for under 10 bucks.. or airtex for about 30... the fuel pump plate gasket is also available...


do you have a brake spoon???    a chunk of non coated welding rod you could bend to see if you can retract it...

just take it out..

like i said.. its only ONE turn of the crank.. between fully extended.. and fully retracted...  but the fuel pump has to push the rod back...  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/12/11 07:27 PM

Motormite/Fuel Pump Pushrod
For your 1965 Chevrolet Corvette 5.4L 4BL OHV 8cyl Price:$5.99



Fuel Pump Push Rod can easily be lost during carbureted engine service. They can also wear over time requiring their own replacement. Dorman's Push rod is made from solid steel for improved life.
Part Number: 03875
Notes: Dorman - HELP!
Type: Fuel pump push rod
Description: Diameter: 1/2 in., length: 5-3/4 in., fits GM carbureted V6 and V8 engines

or

Airtex Master/Fuel Pump Pushrod
For your 1965 Chevrolet Corvette 5.4L 4BL OHV 8cyl
Price:$17.99
Part Number: FP936
Weight: 0.34 lbs
Outside Diameter (in.): 0.498 - 0.499
Overall Length (In): 5.735 - 5.755



Felpro/Fuel Pump Gasket
For your 1965 Chevrolet Corvette 5.4L 4BL OHV 8cyl
Price:$1.49
Part Number: 5182


Part Number: 5182  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1114
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/12/11 07:33 PM

the second shiny area from the left is the fuel pump eccentric...

 

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