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Rebuilt 350 troubles

 
Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 01:43 PM

Hey guys, new here, just bought my first muscle car 4 or 5 months ago, i got a 74 nova, and 2 weeks ago i bought a rebuilt sbc 350, i took my old engine out and put the rebuilt one in, has a gear drive and a compcams XE cam, i emailed the guy who built it for the exact specs on everything thats in it, he said hed get the info to me in an hour or so. so anyway, the swap went smoothly, but upon starting the rebuilt engine it had a real hard time starting at first, like the starter was really struggling to turn the motor (basic replacement starter from autozone, new). Then i finally got the engine running, but it would die at idle, almost instantly, but when i put my foot into it it picks right up and sounds great, no knocks or pings or anything.

i noticed a ton of fuel coming out from around the base of the carb, (holley 4150 2 months old), tried adjusting it and it just keeps seeping fuel around the base, with a new gasket and spacer. Now down to the real cause for my concern, after running the engine for about 10 minutes over the course of one day trying to adjust the carb and timing to get it running continuously at idle so i could adjust the rocker arms with the engine running, i noticed the oil was uniformly the color of pencil lead, like grey metallic paint. i have a magnetic oil pan bolt in the pan and noticed a few tiny shavings on it (about 1-2 mm in length). is it possible that the cam is wiped? or would this metallic coloring of the oil just be from the cam install lube?

id appreciate any help or suggestions as im fairly new to all this and dont have anyone else to ask haha.  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:18 PM

you have DIRT in the fuel system...

pick up an inline fuel filter from a fuel injected application.. and some more fuel hose.... install the inline fuel filter in a loop between the fuel line and the inlet of the pump....    

you will also want to scrounge a big speaker magnet and stick it to the bottom of your fuel tank.. and NOT move it until you can get some installed inside the fuel tank... you are going to have to trust me on that one..  it really does work..

sediment comes right from some gas stations..  much is iron/steel/rust..

it will hold your needle and seat open and cause the carb to flood at shut off.. dribble fuel down on the closed throttle blades and shafts.. where it will pour out the end of the shaft bore..  sorry.. but magnets and better filters really do work...

this is a 90 ranger fuel filter..  since they are available at almost any parts store or big box store in the automotive department i use these..

FF745


there is a version of this filter that has bigger fittings.. but i forgot the part number and application..


after you install the fuel filter.. get a pair of pliers..   start the engine.. take it to fast idle..   1500 rpms.. pinch off the fuel line into the pump... when the engine starts to die.. release the fuel line...

what you are doing is running the engine ALMOST out of gas... just before it dies.. and it is still spinning... releasing the fuel flow causes a HUGE rush of fuel thru the pump and thru the wide open needle and seat... doing this 3 or 4 times can flush out dirt and debris...


there is also a chance that you have TOO MUCH fuel pressure that's overpowering the needle and seat in the carb and causing flooding..  


more than likely.. its dirt.. rust .. sediment in the fuel line..  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:23 PM

thanks for the tip, ill definitely try this! i just bought a fuel cell i was going to stick in the trunk, i imagine i could use the magnets with the fuel cell as well? id probably have to tape the magnets to the cell though as its aluminum.

thanks again, ill try this tomorrow.  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:35 PM

drop them INTO the fuel cell.. under the foam...

since you have a fuel cell.. you will probably want a performance fuel filter..

like the FRAM HPG-1..

Framhpg1

you might still put some small super magnets inside this..  

i blew some dirty gas out of a fuel filter into my white drain pan.. then tossed a magnet into it.. then pushed it with my finger... look at the effect...


Supermagnetindirtygas2  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:36 PM

hmm.. tricked again.. with a double post..  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:42 PM

damn.... you wouldnt think there would be that much ferric residue in gas.  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:43 PM

double post? :O  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:46 PM

if anyone has insight on the metallic colored engine oil, suggestions would be great on that as well Laugh, my engine oil is actually grey. it doesnt even look like oil, it looks like silver paint. this problem never occurred with my old 350.  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 02:47 PM

if anyone has insight on the metallic colored engine oil, suggestions would be great on that as well Laugh, my engine oil is actually grey. it doesnt even look like oil, it looks like silver paint. this problem never occurred with my old 350.  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 08/31/13 03:08 PM

damaged bearings...

coolant in the oil..

scuffed pistons..

engine might have been assembled with white lithium grease instead of moly graphite assembly lube...


disable the ignition system... so there is no change of it starting...

drain the oil from the pan.... before putting the drain plug back in..  pour in half a quart of engine oil..  let it drain thru and out.... put the plug back in the pan..


put fresh oil in the engine.. with the oil filter off.. have somebody crank the engine for a few seconds until oil flows out of the filter area... this should clean any oil stuff out of the pump and the beginning of the oil galleys..


i normally perform this with a remote starter button hooked up directly to the starter.. but you will have to disable the ignition.. this way i can see when clean oil comes out the filter pad...

install filter.. crank from the drivers seat until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge..  check engine oil level.. reconnect ignition system.. start engine..  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/31/13 05:49 PM

thanks, will try this! appreciate the input!  

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 08/31/13 06:11 PM

Does the oil look like this?

0600 Zps07aebfe3  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 09/01/13 07:55 AM

it looks exactly like that  

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Caliburn
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 13
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 09/01/13 10:01 AM

any idea what that means?  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/01/13 10:26 AM

that looks like engine coolant in the engine oil and the surface of all your engine bearings and crank journal surfaces also..

thats bad..

before tear down... or even taken apart... a few things..

take some grocery bag... sandwich wrap.. go over the radiator neck opening with this thin plastic film... wind the rubber band around a few times  to get to hold the plastic tight to the radiator neck... push a finger into it before the rubber band gets tight.. so you leave a pocket in the plastic.. sticking in..   disable the ignition.. and crank the engine for a few seconds.. did the plastic pop up??? then you have a leak from the head gasket or cylinder head..

do you have a compression tester and an air compressor???
you can narrow this down...

get the proper adaptors to connect your compression tester hose to the shop air hose...

remove and safely store the valve core from the end of the compression tester hose.. its special .. so it has to go back when done...

remove ONE spark plug at a time...   use a remote starter button to bump the engine around to get the cylinder you are testing to TDC compression...  charge with air.. does the bag puff up?? or bubbles appear in the radiator..???? then you have proven you have a leak in or around that cylinder.. you will need to test all 8 positions..



hint... if you remove all the rocker arms...  you can perform this with the pistons at bottom dead center and this will also identify that it could be a leaking cylinder wall...


since this is a rebuilt engine.. call the builder.. .save the oil that came out..

this is really bad if your oil looks like that..  in my opinion..  

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