I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posted: 07/21/13 09:59 AM
have a 1962 chevy ss. Back driver side wheel locked up. Brand new rebuilt engine, 2 carbs, only put 53 miles on it, back whell locked up. Could it be master cylinder???
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posted: 07/21/13 11:11 AM
I'd check the shoe adjustment and proportioning valve first.
Posted: 07/21/13 11:21 AM
Check the shoe adjustment and the wheel cylinder the pistons could be froze up in the out position.
Professional Hi-performance engine builder
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posted: 07/21/13 10:12 PM
jack up and support the rear axle...
or jack up the rear axle.. and support the rear of the frame on jack stands so you can drop the floor jack but not touch the ground with the tires...
do not let the floor jack down.. only lower enough to put the weight of the car on the jack stands...
wiggle car.. is it solid.. YES is a good answer with the parking brake off.. transmission in neutral..
have somebody step on the brake pedal and release it again and again.. announcing up.. down.. up.. down..
you are not bleeding the brakes.. you are turning the tires one at a time.. seeing if the brakes release instantly when the helpers foot comes off the brakes..
it should release instantly.. CHECK BOTH SIDES...
now.. the rear wheels are still on.. helper in the drivers seat..
have them depress the parking brake pedal.. and then release while you attempt to turn both sides as the parking brake is set and released...
now.. remember i said not to drop the floor jack. this is important.. as letting the rear end hang on the shocks changes the angles of the brake hose.. changes the angles of the cable casings
next it to inspect the brake adjustment...
remove the rims... since 60s chevy brakes have adjustment slots thru the face of the drum...
stick a lug nut back on to hold the drum tight on the axle flange...
look thru the adjustment slot.. DO NOT ADJUST THE STAR WHEEL... use a bright flashlight and a screwdriver to push it FORWARD... then backward.. ... how far does it move... more than 1/8 of an inch is an issue..
let me type out what i am talking about..
(_________|___) pushed backward..
(________|____) pushed forward..
thats this much movement.. ___||___
if you get this much movement.. ___|__|___ then you have adjustment issues..
do not adjust yet...
now.. take the lug nut off the drum and remove the drum..
lets check the wear surface of the brake drum.. is there any RIDGE around the wear surface either near the outside or the inside??? is there any visible taper or bell mouthing to the drum wear surface???
set the drum down... grab the axle sticking out the end of the housing... look at the end of the housing where the axle seal is... lift up on the axle shaft.. does it move more than a TINY Fraction of an inch.. if any.. then you might need axle bearings or axles..
pull in and out with the axle.. there should also be almost NO MOVEMENT.
now that you are leaned in.. look at the backing plate to housing flange bolts.. is there any shiny area??? twist the backing plate to see if there is any movement.. should be ZERO....
lets look at the brake shoes.. on these.. there are two lengths of brake friction linings on each set of shoes..
the shoe toward the front of the car should have shorter linings than the shoe toward the back of the car..
this is slightly different than what's on your car...
note the length of the friction materials.. this is on the right side of a car... short shoes toward the front..
this is probably very close to what you have on your car...