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Wheel bearings

 
beachj89
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 6
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/04/13 07:55 AM

Ok once again I'm new to all this and i'm trying to learn the right way so this may sound stupid, but on my 74 K10 I removed the locking hub and outer wheel bearing and I want to replace the inner as well, but I cant figure out how to get it out. That being said what is a brass drift? Can I use any other tool to get around using it? and what direction does the bearing and seal punch out?
Thank You  

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 05/04/13 08:25 AM

A brass drift is a brass punch. It's made from brass because brass will take the punishment/damage itself instead of dinging or damaging the part being driven in or out. It's like using a rubber hammer. Something needs encouragement but not damage. The brass drift and the rubber mallet will be the damaged, but not destroyed, entity while the part being encouraged is still in good shape. It's much easier to replace the brass or rubber tool than the part being driven.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

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beachj89
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 6
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/04/13 09:35 AM

Ok that was my understanding, the title drift, made me wonder if it was supposed to drift or be just under the internal diameter of the the wheel hub, alright now that that is cleared up does anyone know in what direction the inner bearing punched out?  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/04/13 11:01 AM

with the K10 rotors and hub looking like this..




0900C1528004c6c4

the bearing races drive out from the closest end..

i have been doing this a LONG time and have worn out all my brass punches over the decades..

i have started using long tapered punches with flat tips like the one on the right side to drive the races out ... a little on the left.. a little on the right.. left and right back and forth as the race slides out straight...

Image 16240

you will want a tapered punch at least a foot long for that application...

i use a 3 pound ball peen hammer..

to drive them in.. i use the old race.. either tapered side to tapered side.. to drive it in squarely.. the final amount.. i usually turn it the upper one so they are stacked.. |\|\  so i can drive it in and use a punch carefully to drive the second one out without damaging the new one..  

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beachj89
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 6
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/19/13 04:37 PM

Yep went to the store and got some tapered punch and it did the trick. So I'm moving on to the rear of the truck, I've got to replace a couple of studs.
I got the drum off but I dont know how to remove the hub assembly. Probably something obvious, but do you need some kind of special tool? Do you have to remove the brake assembly?  

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waynep712222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 251
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/19/13 10:14 PM

if the drum comes off the hub.

use a hammer and your new punch to drive the damaged studs thru ...  try not do damage the other studs...

pick up new studs...

pick up an assortment of flat washers... some that fit the threads fairly tight.. some that fit the shoulder of the stud...

pick up at least ONE new extra conventional lug nut..   insert the stud from the back.. . place big flat washers on first.. then the ones  that fit properly on the threads...  hopefully some grease between the washers... and on the threads..

place the new lug nut on the Stud  FLAT SIDE toward the washers..  not the tapered side.. even up the washers and snug down the lug nut.. now.. using care.. start tightening the new lug nut.. this will draw the new stud into the hub...

you don't need to pull the hub or axle if the drum comes off.

please verify the stud head seats flat against the back of the flange.. and don't over tighten the  studs while pulling them in.. you don't want to stretch the threads...

these were the same length bolts before one got stretched.. just before the failure point.

Stretchedbolt2  

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