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85' Caprice Classic

 
fresh886
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 24
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 10/19/12 09:58 AM

I thank you guys for walking me thru this thing with my old car i really needed the help from yall, after replacing everything possible the real issue was bent push rod and rockers not being seated on the valves properly, lol i know, i know.  

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fresh886
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 24
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 10/19/12 10:00 AM

Now there's just one more thing that needs to be done that i didnt know, the oil pan has to be dropped being that i replaced the timing cover gasket, im trying to save myself alot of money so can you guys tell me how to remove the oil pan  

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/19/12 10:51 AM

remove the oil filter

remove the torque convertor inspection/dust cover...the black plastic piece bolted to the front lower portion of the transmission

remove the motor mount through bolts

remove the dist. cap to allow room for engine movement between it & the firewall

jack up the motor...may use a block of wood between oilpan and jack but be careful not to damage the oilpan

insert a small block of wood between the 2 halves of each motor mount
Motormount1
Motormount2

lower the engine gently

once the motor is resting on the wood blocks in the mounts, remove the oilpan bolts

you'll have to wiggle it out once it's loose...drop the rear to clear the oil pump and wiggle as necessary to remove rest of way out of car

might want to disconnect the battery ground cable...depends on how comfortable you are with the electric hooked up while working on the car...personal preferences and all that jazz


some might have loosened the front pan bolts before putting the front cover back on


see what others have to say  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/19/12 10:52 AM

be careful to not put too much tension on hoses (ac, radiator, etc.) when jacking the motor up  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

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idrivejunk
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 5119
Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/19/12 01:06 PM

Sometimes if you are careful you can use a hook tool and pull the crank seal out of the timing cover after removing the balancer and gain clearance to remove the timing cover with the oil pan in place or just loosened and lowered. Still may have to raise and support the engine, but if you can pull the seal (and not scratch the crank snout, tape it up), you can angle the timing cover for more clearance.  
idrivejunk

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/19/12 03:28 PM

On one I did years ago, I adjusted the top of the inside seal support to make it easier to get in w/o dropping the pan. The front cover went on fine but the seal didn't quite go all the way. Any more I use muli-piece front covers to eliminate that problem. I'd probably help to have a couple friends in a situation like that instead of trying to do it yourself.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 10/19/12 03:29 PM

Icon Quotefresh886:
Now there's just one more thing that needs to be done that i didnt know, the oil pan has to be dropped being that i replaced the timing cover gasket, im trying to save myself alot of money so can you guys tell me how to remove the oil pan

Make sure you drain the oil from the pan before you do anything! Confused

Bob  

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redneckjoe69
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 2337
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 10/19/12 05:02 PM

when doing a cam or timing chain in a sbc, in the vehicle,...i usually unloosen the first 5 bolts on each side of the oil pan.    ill hammer in 2 screwdrivers, one on each side, to bring the pan down just that little bit.    install the cover with the lower seal in place.   squezze a little rtv silicone into the gap on the pan.   re-tighten the pan bolts.

    maybe not the best advise, but thats how i usually do it.  just a dumb red neck. lol.    

    Scotts got the way to go with a 2-piece cover.  

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idrivejunk
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 5119
Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/19/12 08:42 PM

Good advice, Bob!

Hey that sounds pretty smart to me Joe, less is more if it will let ya! Like Scott said, the two piece really is the cool ticket. Of course if you have a Pontiac its much easier, no need to break the seal on the oil pan or water pump.   Grin  
idrivejunk

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 10/19/12 09:06 PM

Matt
Thanks somebody forgot that!
  Your right you don't have to remove the rear main seal unless it's leaking? If it's not leaking leave it alone...

Bob  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 10/19/12 09:09 PM

You know guys there is actually a way to grind the ears from the corners of the T/C Cover so it will slip right back in place. It really works.

Bob  

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fresh886
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 24
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 10/31/12 06:16 PM

how can you tell if your losing vac? my car runs but when i take my foot off the gas it'll stop running can someone tell me where i can get a vac diagram for a 86' caprice  

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68scott385
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1994
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/31/12 06:41 PM

Should be a vacuum diagram on the core support.

Get the car running, spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold gaskets, carb base gasket, and the vacuum lines one at at time, if the engine rpm increases, you've found your vacuum leak.

Make sure your idle screw on the carb is set correctly FIRST.


If your vacuum lines haven't been replaced, as in they are original to the car, they all need to be replaced. My 88 Caprice wagon has 32 vacuum lines.  
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waynep71222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 448
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 10/31/12 07:06 PM

here are a few...

http://www.autozone.com:80/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528005c9b2

you will need to probably check the white sticker thats either on a door jam.. under the hood someplace.. in the glove box.. in the trunk..  either down in the spare tire well or on the trunk lid..

it will HAVE lots of 3 digit codes in columns and rows...  if you take a picture of it.. and either post it or search out the RPO numbers list for your car..  you might be able to tell exactly which label it takes...  

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waynep71222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 448
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 10/31/12 07:40 PM

some of the possible RPO codes..

LB8 Engine, 173ci, 135hp, V6
LB9 Engine, 305ci, 190hp, V8
LG4 Engine, 305ci, 155hp, V8
L69 Engine, 305ci, 190hp, V8

there are a bunch of emission RPO codes on that label that might match up with the 3 digit codes on the individual emission hose routing diagrams..  

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