I have an SS396 tatoo
Posted: 07/23/12 03:52 PM
B1 or B2 is the battery power into the switch for i1 and A
B3 is battery power from a different circuit to i3 usually for the heater blower fan and AC system.
G1 and G2 ground to the bracket ONLY when the engine is being cranked to ground the OIL pressure light circuit and the TEMP light circuit for BULB check...
B1/2 to S is the starter solenoid circuit..
what the numbers MEAN...
power into the switch from the battery..
in this switch B1 and B2 are hooked together.. there may be power wires on one terminal or both..
in this switch this is power for the heater fan and AC circuits...
I1 Ignition ONE... this is the wire to the HEI or Coil positive connector.. sometimes other circuits.
i3 Ignition three this is the wire to the heater fan and ac circuits usually...
A ACCessories.. this powers a bunch of things in the run.. but also when the key is turned backwards to the ACC position ..
these are ISOLATED from ground except when the switch is in the CRANKING position..
at that point.. these are grounded individually to the switch housing.. this is to light up the oil and temp lights while cranking for a bulb check...
warning... you might run into during your life.. an ignition switch on the column that has a i2 (ign two ) terminal... a few cars used them.. usually NOT chevy models... always with points..
I2 is for Cars that do not use the R terminal from the starter solenoid to bypass the resistor wire between the bulk head connector and the ignition coil on point type cars..
installing this later ignition switch.. and repinning the i2 wire to I1 position will usually get you full battery voltage at the HEI ignition... please verify this if you run into it..
this is the AZ/wells 263 ignition switch connector for the above column mounted switches
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posted: 07/23/12 03:57 PM
while i have your attention..
this is the KEY on the dashboard type of ignition switch... this is a version for a 75 chevy van with HEI and the key on the dash.. NOT THE COLUMN...
if you have questions do ask... please print out your exact wiring diagram and use Highlighter markers to follow the 2 wires from the positive side of the ignition coil backwards to the ignition switch.. its easier that way...
you will also want to supply a SECOND wire to the BAT terminals .. as the load is more than a single wire will usually carry properly..