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Car starts up runs rough and progressivley gets worse and dies...

 
sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/18/11 02:00 PM

I have a 327 in a 1931 Chevy, it was running fine then died. When I was able to start it again it ran great, then began to run rough and progressively got worse and died. The plugs and wires needed changing so I replaced them all. On the coil wires they were loose, 2 broken at the coil connection, I wasn't get any reading from it on a bench test. I replaced the Coil and noise condenser attached to the side of the coil . She'll start right up but still runs rough as heck and dies. Confused

Any direction I get would be greatly apppreciate it.

I been Banging My Head Against the Wall and any other hard surface in the garage.

Thanks Guys,

Steve,  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 12/18/11 04:22 PM

SSCARDINO welcome aboard.

You didn't tell us if you have a carb, or injection
Do you have a mechanical or electric fuel pump.HEI or point distributor?

One of (2) things come to mind. It's running out of gas,or a vacuum leak.

I would go over all the bolts on the intake mainfold and if a carb check the (4) bolts there.

To continue with checking for a vacuum leak, spray carb clean and go along the parting line between the intake and head. Put that tube in the Nozzle and spray between them, if the engine changes idle i.e. smoothes out, race up, I would investigate that area.

If that doesn't do it, then as soon as it starts to shake and carry on spray a little carb clean over the top of the carb does that help the shaking. If it does you may have a fuel problem a few things maybe happening. The carb if equipped,maybe running out of fuel. That could be do to a clogged fuel filter or a fuel pump that is warning you that it maybe starting to go. Mechanical,or electric fuel pump. (Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on your system by chance. If you do see if you could monitorit will it is shaking and getting ready to stall. Try to give us a little more feed back, that would help. Good Luck  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/19/11 12:28 AM

Thanks for the greeting!

Oh Yea, Confused  she has a carb, electric fuel pump and a point distributor.

The elec. fuel pump runs, But...

In the mean time I'll check out your suggestion in the am. Cool

Thanks Again!

Steve


Read more: http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8948921/1968-chevy-cars/car-starts-up-runs-rough-and-progressivley-gets-wo/index.html#ixzz1gxkl8jQ8  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 12/19/11 02:49 AM

Steve.

Thats why I like to get as much info as possible. You point distributor works on a complete differen system then the GM HEI as voltage supplied. I'm not saying this is your problem, but maybe it is. Very simple test.

I went through some old papers and I found a note. The note said Voltage loss to point type distributor. When this happens check the voltage to the positive side of your coil. You should have a steady 10 Volts DC Supply. If it is lower then 10 VDC your going to have to start tracing those wires one at a time in that harness.
Steve if this is the problem? Is the wire harness old? If this is it there maybe a fix for it without tearing the harness apart.


Steve I just thought of something else. You can jump the ballist resistor to the points. That maybe cracked and changing the resistence to the points.The ballist resistor drops the alternator voltage from whatever it is putting out 14 to 16 VDC to a safe voltage of 10 to 12 voltes so the points have a longer life. That's all it's there for to drop and control altrenator voltage, Lets Hope!
Thanks for the info
Bob  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/21/11 08:53 PM

I don't think this puppy has a Ballast Resister. I cannot find it. It isn't any where near the distributor, coil or on the fire wall. I'm looking for a square ceramic material, right?

I also need to get a better multimeter ASAP. I gotta drive my car Frown  


Thank You,
Steve  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1130
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 12/21/11 10:21 PM

i heard nothing about checking the points....  

let me dive inside the distributer...

the point base is attached to the breaker plate...    there should be a ground wire from the upper breaker plate to one of the breaker plate hold down screws or the vacuum advance screws..

the condenser is also grounded to the upper breaker plate..

if the ground strap is not firmly attached..  between the upper breaker plate and the distributer housing.. you may not have enough electrons to fill the coil as fast as you would like...

you can see the ground wire from the vacuum advance screw to the upper breaker plate in this picture..




i would also like you to examine the points contact faces... and where the wire attaches..   burned points can cause all kinds of problems..   wires not in the exact location or the wrong shape for the spring loaded points wire attachment..

do you have a dwell meter  to adjust the points with..   to 30 degrees on the 8 cylinder setting..  if you don't .. HF. has a digital dwell meter for 38 bucks..

you can in a pinch.. get the engine running.. and turn the screw slowly in either direction until the engine dies.. then turning it back exactly HALF a turn..   somebody showed me this a LONG time ago  gets it really close to 30 degrees..

any chance that the fuel pump is getting dirt into it and failing to pump??? i have had that happen so many times.. i cannot count them... i have since started carrying stacks of super magnets on my tool box.. when i have a sending unit out.. i drop in a super magnet.. make sure it falls to the bottom of the tank.. they are strong enough.. i have had them fall upwards when i dropped them through the opening..

just trying to help...  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 01/01/12 04:15 PM

Happy New Year,

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Holiday?!  Tongue Yea, those are ideas & the discription. I haven't done anything with the points. I'll check the points.  I believe I either burnt out the replacment coil or it had a factory defect Wink

Thanks a lot, I do appreiate your help/impute.

Steve  

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zman123
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy
Posts: 537
Joined: 06/08
Posted: 01/02/12 08:26 AM

Is this a problem that came on very sudenly or just gradually got worse? the reason I ask is: did something break, or just wear out? Could be as simple as insulation on an ignition wire wearing through and grounding out or as bad timing chain jumping a tooth. How many miles do you have on the motor? Did you build the car? Sounds sweet.  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 01/14/12 01:40 PM

I have another question concerning the distributor on my 1968 Corvette 327. The distributor had a lub tube running up along side of it. It has a spring loaded cap on it.

How do I maintain this, I understand it takes grease. what do I fill it with & when it's is full, when it reaches the top?

Also, it has no vacuum unit on the distributor. What does that mean in terms setting points etc.

The engine still isn't starting. I had no readings on the coil, I replace it with a Mallory 700 coil. I replaced the ballist resistor for good measure. No spark at the plugs. UUrrgg.. Confused  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 01/14/12 01:40 PM

I have another question concerning the distributor on my 1968 Corvette 327. The distributor had a lub tube running up along side of it. It has a spring loaded cap on it.

How to maintain this, I understand it takes grease. what do I fill it with & when it's is full, when it reaches the top?

Also, it has no vacuum unit on the distributor. What does that mean in terms setting points etc.

The engine still isn't starting. I had no readings on the coil, I replace it with a Mallory 700 coil. I replaced the ballist resistor for good measure. No spark at the plugs. UUrrgg.. Confused  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 01/14/12 01:56 PM

Hi, it was sudden it was running great, I went to start it one morning it started but ran great then progressively got worse until it died.

She has 54,000. An old fella who bought it new in the 1931, the begain working on it in the 70's. I completed some of it. But I give the original guy all the credit.

Thank for taking an interest!  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1130
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 01/14/12 02:39 PM

first... log in.. check your messages to the left of where you log out at...

i have more diagnostics i am going to edit THIS post and keep increasing ....

edits to come...

do you have a circuit tester.. (test light)

Image 17623

the clip on the end of the wire...    hook that to the positive post on the coil....     shove the pointy probe into something to ground it and so its grounded where you can see the light...   slowly work the ignition switch from off.. to ON to cranking.. and back to ON..    

off.. should have NO light showing..
ON.. the light should be medium brightness..
cranking.. should be full brightness.

pay attention to when you are moving through ON to cranking and back to ON.. that the bulb does not go out..

you can let the engine run.. with it on.. to check the voltage to the positive side of the coil..

while doing this.. do you have some kind of timing light???

Image 18130




hook the clamp up to the coil wire...

tape the trigger ON..  so it constantly flashes with the engine running.. position it so you can see the light flashing..

when it starts to fail... is the light still flashing nice and steady?? or is it acting strange.. not giving you a steady flashing light..

i have made many test drives with a timing light tucked under the wipers...

i also use this..  when i have a car that has a hot failure issue...  i set the engine at fast idle.. choke all the way open..  close the hood so it builds normal heat under the hood. and stand with my hand on the fender never taking my eyes off the timing light flashing....   when the engine falters.. i pay close attention.. does the light stay steady flashing until the engine comes to a complete stop... or does it blink out then the engine dies..   you have to have your hand on the fender to do this..  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1130
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 01/14/12 03:12 PM

the oil in the lube tube is to lube the upper bushing in the distributer..  there is a wick on later models that catches some of the vapors up from the crankcase to keep the upper bushing oiled..  

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sscardino
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 15
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 01/16/12 09:08 AM

Hi Wayne,

I have a spark plug tester, not a timing light. I priced them, I hope to obtain one soon.

Steve

I'll call you later today. Thats very cool that allow prople to call you with their mind bending problems.  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/16/12 12:40 PM

The Lube Tube on the side of your distributor is just that. You don't want to over-fill or  over lube that wick that is is there. If you do the oil will work its way into the area of the points and make a mess. Just the vapor from the oil will ruin your points. JUST SOME FYI.

You have one very old distributor, what we did with them when we did a tune up, we would just put a couple drops of oil in the tube.

What we did as we got smarter, we removed the tube and drill and tapped the oil tube hole, and then installed a Zurk fitting. Every once in a while just give it a shot of grease.
Thanks
Bob  

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