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454 Rebuild

 
chevelle83
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
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Posted: 10/02/11 10:49 AM

yes, I did check the ring gaps, they were .020, well within the .018-.026 specs

I forgot to take a pic of that step, I think I mentioned it somewhere in here.

and yes I offset my gaps 90 degrees on each ring or 12/3/6/9 o clock.  simple stuff  that any assembly book shows.

most "general" manuals dont show each individual step in real detail, which is what I was trying to do here.

all together it took about 4 hours to assemble the bottom end with my experience and not wasting any time, keep in mind I have all the tools handy to do this job  

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/02/11 11:02 AM

Ok,,,,, now lets install the bearing shells, rear main seal, and crank shaft.

install each shell making sure it is clean and fully seated, then liberal with the assembly lube go ahead and do the same with the main caps.
DSC03652
 
then the rear main seal, I install it then apply a film of sealer with a finger, Just enough to cover the surface
here is a large pic to show it well:
DSC03653

then gently install the crank,  it should rotate easily laying in the journals, but dont push all the lube out of the journals.
DSC03654


install the main caps starting with the rear main, I use a large ratchet to snug them well then come back and torque it to spec.

give the crank a little turn with each cap installed, 1 finger effort should rotate it,,,,, if it takes any excessive effort to move the crank there is a problem, stop and check it out.  

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tuffnuff
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Posted: 10/02/11 11:11 AM

Cateyes

Chevelle, I got my eye on you.,. I mess with plenty of BB's cuz they're my fav engine.,. your thread is bang on. Keep doin what you're doin, for the readers.

Dartbigblock

Smile  
When The Flag Drops.,.

tuffnuff

The Bull ***t Stops.,.
tuffnuff

P. Engineer, Engine Builder

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/02/11 11:31 AM

now with the rings installed on all the pistons, install the bearing shells in the rods.  
DSC03630
Notice the rubber caps on the rod bolts, a piece of hose will work if you dont have these, engine kits usually come with a set.

I like to use an oil can to liberally oil the wrist pins and work the oil into the pin well, this area is one of the last places to get oil, and it is a very small amount, usually only a splash mist and you see how it would have to get into the pin area
DSC03648

you can see the small oil grooves
DSC03649

I like this type ring compressor, it will fit any size piston and the tension is easily adjustable.
 off set the ring gaps and install the compressor with a fair amount of pressure ***

 dont lock it down cause it will cause you to have to beat the piston down and that will cause the bearing shell to fall out of the rod and you will have to restart ,,,,, pushing the pistons back out of the bore is a pain so take time and get it right the first time.
DSC03660

notice I took a paint marker and marked the slot I was using, it make things go a little faster.
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now rotate the crank and position the journal on the bottom directly below the bore to help the rod fall into the correct position.

I use a rag and wipe a small amount of oil onto the bores the lower the piston down into the bore with the mark facing the front of the engine.
DSC03667


then use a wood hammer or I use this dead blow to shove,,, NOT ,,,beat the piston down into the bore
DSC03668

once the compressor pops off, guide the rod onto the crank with your hand, make sure it is lined up parallel with the other rod to prevent it catching on something on the way down,,,,,,

fully seat the piston then install the cap with lube, and snug the bolts..

IMPORTANT,,,,,, again rotate the crank with each piston install to check for binding,,,,,, if there is,,, STOP and check it out.  if a rod it out of round it would cost about $20 to have it corrected.


with all the pistons installed and the whole bottom end torqued it took 25 ft-lb to turn the rotating assembly and that is normal for a new stock engine.
DSC03676

DSC03677

I oiled the engine down and covered it up for the nite,,,,, I highly recommend this if the engine is gonna sit for a while before you install it.

I use a spray bottle and lite motor oil because it holds better than wd 40 or something like that.
DSC03675  

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tuffnuff
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Posted: 10/02/11 11:51 AM

Super thread Chevelle.,. I'd like to thank you for bringing us back to basics.
It's been a long time since I built anything stock,,, my builds are mostly juiced or blown, with some endurance marine engines thrown in, for good measure.
Love the detail and pics.,. keep posting bud.

Smile  
When The Flag Drops.,.

tuffnuff

The Bull ***t Stops.,.
tuffnuff

P. Engineer, Engine Builder

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idrivejunk
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Posted: 10/02/11 05:56 PM

+1 tuff

I don't wanna sound like a bolt, but this is a fine thread for folks like me. Ghevelle, you make it look so easy that I am tempted to try it! Of course, having a BBC would be a good first step, lol.

Nice thread, simple and to the point. Can't wait to hear it (not) make noise!  Cool  
idrivejunk

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/02/11 08:37 PM

Thanks guys,,,, hey I just figured I bring a thread that could help folks, really do this stuff.

with the ever rising cost of new cars and trucks,,,, rebuilding and fixing our old stuff is very cost effective these days.

I will have less than $2000 in this whole ordeal, and a re man engine alone is almost $3000 and they are usually sloppy rebuilds with many mismatched parts.

 plus who wants a stock cam??? $200 to make the engine much more efficient and more powerful.  

most of the time you got an engine that is tired or worn and it simply needs a refresh,,, it will be waaaaaay better like this and last longer than a sloppy rebuild.

yeah I will try to make a video of when it fires up,,, I hope Smile

I worked on a customers jeep today, and  didnt make any progress on the 454 so maby tommorrow I will get it buttoned up.  

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/04/11 09:25 PM

more parts,,,, needed,,, the original oil pickup was welded at the factory, I didnt bother cutting it out and ordered a new one for $11 no biggie, just more time and trips to the part store.

I will try to get the rest of the pics tommorrow: heads, cam, rocker and pushrods, sheet metal etc and finish this thread upSmile  

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pepsi1
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Posted: 10/04/11 11:01 PM

I always used a 50/50 mix of 50 weight/GM EOS for engine assembly and same thing here I never had a failure during breakin. I just read an article in Engine Builders Mag. the EPA wants the High Zinc out of the diesel engines to. Big Brother beats us up all the time.

I know they use a lot of ceramic coated parts in diesels.

I've had guys bring their engines in for refreshen and bearings and valve guides looked good.  

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pepsi1
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Posted: 10/04/11 11:09 PM

Hey TuffNuff you should show them what that Pontiac engine looked like when the head gasket Blew. I watch every head gasket I use. Thanks bud.  

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tuffnuff
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Posted: 10/05/11 11:35 AM

No problem Pepsi.

389Pontiac3

389Pontiac1

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When The Flag Drops.,.

tuffnuff

The Bull ***t Stops.,.
tuffnuff

P. Engineer, Engine Builder

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chevelle83
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Joined: 11/09
Posted: 10/06/11 10:13 PM

ok back to the engine,,,,,,,,

the new cam all molyed up goes in easy and should turn nice and smooth
DSC03678

then I installed full roller timing set: straight up or "at zero"
and use thread locker and torqued the bolts to spec
DSC03679

then I lined up the marks perfectly, then installed the timing cover.
DSC03680

while the dots were dead on I checked the new balancer to make sure the timing marks were dead on,,,,, this is an easy time to check and calibrate your timing marks with the engine apart vs doing it with the engine installed
DSC03690  

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/06/11 10:22 PM

now lets install the oil pump, the screens are a pain to install I use this method with a wrench that fits the tube then snug it in a vice.
then use a dead blow hammer and drive it home
DSC03688

be sure it is reasonably lined up the face of the screen with the mounting flange, it will be close to where you need it to be.
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now install the pump on the engine and just snug the bolt.
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lets set the screen depth, measure the oil pan with a straight edge
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then your screen to block rail:
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I set mine to 3/8 of an inch.  then remove the pump and tack weld the screen to the pump body (oops i didnt take a pic of that)
install the oil pump drive shaft, this high volume pump required the heavy duty shaft with the steel sleeve
DSC03695
 a very worthy upgrade to any new engine it cost about $15 for this one

re install the pump and torque to spec, go ahead and prime the pump with a shot of oil or lube,  simply to prevent running it dry when you prime the engine.


install the timing cover and oil pan.  

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/06/11 10:33 PM

I didnt take any pics of changing the valve springs, but I recommend using new springs with any new engine.  usually your machine shop will install them while re working the heads for no extra charge
here they are all done
DSC03685

I like to run a thread chaser through all the spark plug hole just for good measure
DSC03686

I then installed the head gaskets and heads, I use thread sealer on the bolts with a dab of assembly lube and torque them in 3 stages.
 I use 40,,,60,,,,85 final, and make at least 3 laps over all the bolts to make sure even torque
DSC03697

 finish installing the lifters and rest of the valve train,,,, I set the lash  1/4 turn past "zero" lash and plan on re adjusting after the breakin  

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chevelle83
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Posted: 10/06/11 10:49 PM

I wiped it down and gave her a nice coat of engine gloss black,,,, i usually am particular to orange painted engines,,, but this is going in the truck and serious detail is not part of this deal.
 it turned out pretty good,,, I hope it runs as well as it looks!!!!!

DSC03699

then I sealed it up and taped all the holes. this engine will sit on the stand for a little while till I get the truck in the shop and pull out that 502. that may be a few days.  DSC03700

gotta love mean tough look of BBC  Smile

DSC03701  

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