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NEW 350 Has Fire and fuel but wont start

 
semanko
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 9
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 12/15/08 01:02 PM

Hey all I could use some suggestions. I just dropped a new rebuilt 350 in my 55 willies that I pulled a 327 out of and went thru all the steps of adjusting valves and getting the distributer in right but when I go to fire it up It either pops out the exhaust a little and wont fire off or pops a little out the carb at times. I've double checked the firing order several times, tried running a jumper from my pertronix unit to the pos batt terminal instead of the pos coil, tried running it at the resistor and everything. It isnt really a spark problem cause it has spark but it just wont fire up. I also tried loosening my valves a little to see if they werent too tight and it seems to pop a little better. I'm pretty much stumped on this one so if anybody has any Ideas please let me know...  

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55Guy
Big Block power for the win
Posts: 895
Joined: 08/07
Posted: 12/16/08 07:36 AM

It's got to be a timing problem. You're getting spark but at the wrong time. Repull the distributor, move no. 1 cylinder to TDC, then reinstall the distributor and follow normal timing procedures.

How much lifter preload did you use? How many turns?  

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lvchevy58
I love my Chevy Chevette!
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Joined: 12/08
Posted: 12/16/08 09:46 PM

did you rebuild it or buy it new?  

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lvchevy58
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 5
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Posted: 12/16/08 10:03 PM

check the cam. You need to find out what cam is in it and make sure the cam is idexed to the correct degree.....  

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eastwoodisme
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Posted: 12/17/08 06:46 AM

If it was rebuilt correctly then the cam will do nothing to the popping noise. Poppong of backfire is coming from combustion at innapropriate times. These "times" are what evolves aroiund the central firgure known as "timing" firing order may be correct, but if using HEI your distributor can be off. Do not keep trying if its popping. Do as 55guy said. Move No.1 one to top dead center and set the HEI rotor tip pointing towards where your number one post on the cap. This should be close and all you have to do is move the distributor back and forth until you reach close enough timing to run. Hope that helped.  

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JW454
I have an SS396 tatoo
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Joined: 07/08
Posted: 12/17/08 03:52 PM

Almost certainly ign. timing is off, like the others have said. Be sure that your on #1 and not on #6 compression. Both events will have the balancer and timing tab lined up. You can be sure by either pulling the #1 plug and while the engine is cranked, the compression stroke will blow your finger off the plug hole, or pull the driver side valve cover and roll the engine until the timing marks are about to meet and both intake and exhaust valves are closed.  

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semanko
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 9
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 12/19/08 11:09 PM

Hey, thanks for all the tips guys! I'll try it as soon as I get a chance.I did try turning my distributer 180 deg. when It first wouldnt start and it didnt seem to get much better. I'm gonna try it all over agian when I get my coil back.  I bought a new flame thrower coil and the posative post broke right off so I had to send it back to the factory but, they are making good on it soo that is a good thing.  

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semanko
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Posted: 12/19/08 11:13 PM

What is lifter pre-load? Do you mean priming the oil pump?  

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JW454
I have an SS396 tatoo
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Posted: 12/20/08 08:12 PM

Lifter preload is the amount of clearance between the snap ring and plunger. It exist's to take up slack that are part of normal wear and tear and makes for a quiet valvetrain. Pre load should be .060-.090 and that translates into a half to full turn on the rocker adj. nut from zero lash.  

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semanko
I love my Chevy Chevette!
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Joined: 11/08
Posted: 12/21/08 10:17 AM

Yrah I went one full turn after the lash was tight( push rods had no play. But does it matter that the hydrolic valves had never been pumped up?  

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Pontiacman2
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Posted: 12/21/08 11:24 AM

one full turn is to much preload I recomend a 1/4 turn of preload from zero lash.  
Pontiacman2
Pontiacman2

Professional Hi-performance engine builder

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semanko
I love my Chevy Chevette!
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Joined: 11/08
Posted: 12/21/08 02:30 PM

OK when It wasnt starting and was  popping out the carb and the exhaust( not at the same time of course) After I tried swapping the distributer 180 deg. and it still would not start,  I backed the valves off one full turn and it seemed to fire a little more often than it was before I loosened them. I'm wondering if I need to start all over with the valve adjustments?  

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SMOKESHOW
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
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Posted: 12/22/08 06:34 AM

How did you adjust your valves in the first place?  What method did you use?  

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semanko
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 9
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Posted: 12/23/08 05:33 AM

right out of the book. Number one tdc and tightened til no lash intake and exhaust and then went one full turn. then 90 degrees at a time on crank and moved to the next to the next and so on  

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SMOKESHOW
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1001
Joined: 09/08
Posted: 12/23/08 08:45 AM

The proper method for adjusting hydraulic flat tappet valves is as follows:

Hydraulic Flat Tappet and Hydraulic Roller Camshaft: First turn the engine in the normal direction
of rotation. Start with cylinder number one (1). When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the
intake valve to zero lash plus an additional ½ turn more. Rotate the engine over again until the intake
valve reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down. Then set the exhaust valve to zero
lash plus ½ turn. Adjust the valves on each cylinder in this manner until all valves are adjusted."

Zero Lash will be when you feel resistance on the push rod.  

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