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07 chevy silverado brake problems!

 
Primal6
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 1
Joined: 08/11
Posted: 08/14/11 11:33 PM

I'm having the same problem as well. My 07' is the new body. Most of the time the brakes pulse but every so often they stop smoothly. Another thing I have noticed is when I touch the brake pedal all my lights dim slightly as well as well from time to time causes the A/C to "lag" and come back up. I am completely stumped. I bought the truck used with 63K miles with a bumper to bumper warranty but haven't had time to get it to the shop. I was looking at replacing the stock rims and tires but I haven't looked to see if the rear has disc or drum brakes. If drum I will have to wait and have the drums converted to disc other wise after market rims will look like crap.  

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calpat
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 1
Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/03/11 08:26 AM

Hi, did anyone get there brake problem corrected with the dealer? I have the same problem with the rear drums. They have been replaced 6-7 times with new shoes and drums and I have the same shuttering due to warped drums, every time, shortly after there replaced! I'm now out of warranty but GM said they would help me if the problem continued. There is a problem beyond replacing drums. I think it has something to do with the ABS, Stabilitrac  system. I see on this site and may other I'm not the only one with this problem. The dealer keeps telling me that they have never seen another truck with this problem? Have any of you guys had the brake issue corrected?  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1130
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 10/04/11 08:08 AM

Icon QuotePrimal6:
I'm having the same problem as well. My 07' is the new body. Most of the time the brakes pulse but every so often they stop smoothly. Another thing I have noticed is when I touch the brake pedal all my lights dim slightly as well as well from time to time causes the A/C to "lag" and come back up. I am completely stumped. I bought the truck used with 63K miles with a bumper to bumper warranty but haven't had time to get it to the shop. I was looking at replacing the stock rims and tires but I haven't looked to see if the rear has disc or drum brakes. If drum I will have to wait and have the drums converted to disc other wise after market rims will look like crap.




you have a ground wire problem that is causing your lights to dim..... this is a serious problem THAT is easily fixed...


print this...  

i have an under 5 minute test... that will narrow down the problems...  this really does work.....


take a digital volt meter...  they start at 7 bucks and you don't need to spend more than 25 for one...


set it to 20 volts DC scale...


start the engine.. turn on the headlights...


1.  measure from the positive battery post to the negative battery post...    14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected...


2.  measure from the Negative battery post to the engine block.. ...........   0.04 volts is expected


3.  measure from the Negative battery post to the body of the car...          0.02 volts is expected..


4.  measure from the Engine block to the body of the car..............            0.02 volts is expected..


if you get 0.00 on tests 2, 3, 4... change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale and retest 2, 3, 4..

please post your readings.. by number..


this is the first test  and it finds the biggest problems up front..   the car has to pass these readings or you cannot go farther...

it took me longer to type this than it will for you to test the car.

normal charging voltage is 14.1 to 14.8 volts... if you don't get that... there is a problem..

tests 2, 3, 4 show that the individual parts are properly grounded.. so there will be enough electrons when you need to operate something...     voltage readings over 0.04 or 0.02 volts show that there is a ground problem..

post your results...  

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waynep7122
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1130
Joined: 08/09
Posted: 10/04/11 08:16 AM

Icon Quotecalpat:
Hi, did anyone get there brake problem corrected with the dealer? I have the same problem with the rear drums. They have been replaced 6-7 times with new shoes and drums and I have the same shuttering due to warped drums, every time, shortly after there replaced! I'm now out of warranty but GM said they would help me if the problem continued. There is a problem beyond replacing drums. I think it has something to do with the ABS, Stabilitrac  system. I see on this site and may other I'm not the only one with this problem. The dealer keeps telling me that they have never seen another truck with this problem? Have any of you guys had the brake issue corrected?

for this problem... you need to find somebody with an advanced scan tool that will communicate with the ABS system...

you will need to have 2 people on a test drive....

monitoring and comparing  the wheel speed sensors as the truck is driven....

if you have a wheel speed sensor that is putting out the incorrect or slightly different speed...   it may be enough to trigger the antilock or traction control system.. usually turning on the abs light while in operation... so you might not notice it..  as it will go out when you release the brakes..


like the other post.. i would like you to follow this test first...


i have an under 5 minute test... that will narrow down the problems...  this really does work.....


take a digital volt meter...  they start at 7 bucks and you don't need to spend more than 25 for one...


set it to 20 volts DC scale...


start the engine.. turn on the headlights...


1.  measure from the positive battery post to the negative battery post...    14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected...


2.  measure from the Negative battery post to the engine block.. ...........   0.04 volts is expected


3.  measure from the Negative battery post to the body of the car...          0.02 volts is expected..


4.  measure from the Engine block to the body of the car..............            0.02 volts is expected..


if you get 0.00 on tests 2, 3, 4... change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale and retest 2, 3, 4..

please post your readings.. by number..


this is the first test  and it finds the biggest problems up front..   the car has to pass these readings or you cannot go farther...

it took me longer to type this than it will for you to test the car.

normal charging voltage is 14.1 to 14.8 volts... if you don't get that... there is a problem..

tests 2, 3, 4 show that the individual parts are properly grounded.. so there will be enough electrons when you need to operate something...     voltage readings over 0.04 or 0.02 volts show that there is a ground problem..

post your results...  

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Nahsh
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 1
Joined: 11/11
Posted: 11/04/11 05:27 PM

There are several roller brake testing equipment and machines available but most of them not fall under the category of PBBT (Performance based brake tester) because they differ much in their monitoring and execution as compared to conventional machinery. One of these updated PBBTs is VIS-Check from www.vischeck.net. This device is awesome because it can detect the problems in the braking system and gives easy troubleshooting to complex problems.  

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mtbk1
I love my Chevy Chevette!
Posts: 1
Joined: 05/12
Posted: 05/02/12 05:02 PM

Had my rotors warp at 36,000 (no hard braking or trailer pulling)  Mechanic said rear brakes were not set at factory. Rotors ground - 20,000 miles later the rotors are warped again.  

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waynep71222
I have an SS396 tatoo
Posts: 448
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 05/02/12 06:04 PM

mtbk1    is your ABS light on for more than 5 seconds at start up????  it should GO out after start up..  and ONLY come on when you really stand on the brakes to get the antilocks working..

if your antilock light is on.. you have an issue..   the antilocks for some reason in some years tend to drag the brakes getting them hot, reducing fuel economy and brake life..

find someone with what ever GM uses for the antilock brake diagnosis..    this requires a test drive with a mechanic in the passenger seat monitoring the wheel speed sensor graphs in relation to the vehicle speed sensor and a GPS sensor in the windshield..    the scan tool used to be a TECH 2..

if any of the speed sensors DO NOT exactly match each other or the vehicle speed sensor and the GPS.. you will be able to find the issue..

there is also a steering input sensor in the steering column that goes bad..  lets the Antilock computer know when you are turning the steering wheel and how fast you are turning it..

why does it need this info.. so it can calculate the difference in speed between the various tires are you go around a corner.. the ones on the inside of the turn take a shorter path than the ones on the outside of the turn...

ABS codes are not picked up by generic scan tools unless they say abs system when you set it up on the first few screens in..   generic info is usually mostly engine.. and a few transmission issues..  



your 2007 might also have traction control... and that throws a whole new twist in the curve ball..  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 05/02/12 09:04 PM

I had a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 HD until some drugged up punk hit me head on and destroyed the truck.

I know the R/Rear brake calipers and pads wear  very fast. GM has a fix for that problem. They will charge you for a screw up in design of the way the water hit that R/Rear brake assembly. They will sell you a rubber or plastic guard to delect the water away from going onto the caliper.

I saw the truck on a simulator where they can run a car/truck and duplicate the a vehicle driven in all types of weather. The water just goes to that R/Rear as the trucks under body dynamics makes it go there.

If your rear wheels have a lot of brake dust on them then your pads are dragging. The only way to stop the squeel is remove each rotor assembly. Take each rotor off one at a time and with a heavy duty scotch-brite pad attached to die grinder or cordless drill  put ununiform patterns in the rotors. Make sure the calipers aren't seized.

If your pads are in good shape and can be reused take a flat file and on the leading edge of each pad, front and rear put a bevel on that edge. A good size bevel the better! On each pad you can install anti squeel compound to the metal side of he pads. Clean everything well with brake clean, and reassemble.

Bob  

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pepsi1
I mow my lawn and find Chevys
Posts: 1718
Joined: 09/11
Posted: 05/03/12 07:04 AM

Matt and Melissa

I gor got that GM went back to rear drums. But it's still all the same. As I said they GM had a problem with the rear brakes. Matt if I where you I would look for a rear disc set up on your truck. Does your brake system have a Hydraboost, and NOT a Vacuum assist. That should be what you have GM did atleast install them on their HD truck and SUV's.

If you follow that procedure for the brake squeel in the front brakes,I'm sure that will take care of it. Cool  Grin

The rears make that squeel sound, because the brake dust can't get out. When you pull the rears off you can have the drums turned. Then take 60 grit sand paper and  by hand take the glaze off the shoes. If you don't want to turn the rear drums you can try removing the glaze by hand from the drums the same way. You won't be hurting a thing,then clean all the parts with brake clean ans reassemble them. Sorry for the Faux Pah. Confused
Bob  

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