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SBC 350 oil pressure issues.

  
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SBC 350 oil pressure issues.

 
cdupee2008 cdupee2008
I love my Chevy Chevette! | Posts: 1 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/17/13
01:19 PM

I have a fresh rebuild 350 4 bolt main. When i fired it up i had 80+ psi instantly but no oil at the top of the engine. I checked for the plug that people always say to check by the distributer and it does appear to be ther. Any ideas would be appreciated on what to check or what would cause this. I did notrun the engine very long 3-5 seconds. Didnt want to ruin anything. Thanks in advance.  

waynep712222 waynep712222
V-6 Camaros rule! | Posts: 122 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/17/13
02:59 PM

where is the sending unit????/ top of the block next to the distributer???

it will take a few seconds to about a minute of running to get all the  lifters filled with oil pressure and quieted down..

pull the sending unit....     measure down to that plug....

8 and a half inches.. if i recall correctly... from the top of the block to the face of the plug..

if its 9 and a half inches.. somebody blocked the passage from the rear main cap into the block

it should be at the end of the RED arrow...  

if its at the parting line of the rear block and rear main cap.. you will have NO OIL PRESSURE ANYWHERE..

with the oil filter off... ignition disabled.. .. do you get oil flow while the engine is being cranked??????????????????????



what is the part number of the oil filter...   did the plastic wrap dirt seal get removed from the oil filter.. think of shrink wrap on a food container..    

if you get oil flow out of the filter mount area.. when you crank the engine.. put the filter back on... do you get oil flow out thru the sending unit hole...

Sbcrearloweroilgalley  

Ravoll Ravoll
V-6 Camaros rule! | Posts: 85 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 04/17/13
03:17 PM

Did you drill prime the oiling system first?If not, it will take a while before you start seeing oil at the top.As soon as the lifters are pumped up and stop clacking,they will send oil up the push rod holes.

If your starting this thing for the first time after rebuilding it,you probably will be breaking in a new cam and lifters?If so it would be a good idea to prime the system first.When all the lifters are flowing oil then set your lash again
The reason I say this is as soon as it fires up you need to jump into "camshaft break in mode", in case you don't already know this.Holding the rpm steady at 2500 or 3000 with the lifters clacking away or lashes that become to tight after the lifters pump up is not really a good thing for the lobes I reckon.  
The older I get,the faster I was.

cdupee2002 cdupee2002
I love my Chevy Chevette! | Posts: 1 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/18/13
11:38 AM

sorry had issues logging in had to change my username.  I measured the gallery plug and it is at 8 1/2 inches so I am thinking that i did not prime it long enough. I pulled the bttome end apart and everything seems to be ok so this weekend I will put it all back together and try to prime it for a longer time ro see if that works.
thanks for the advice. Just got woried when i didnt have oil at the top end.I used the original oil pump should i look at replacing it with a high flow version?  

waynep712222 waynep712222
V-6 Camaros rule! | Posts: 122 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/18/13
08:46 PM

high volume... std volume...   find one with the pickup installed.. so you don't have to ..

verify the depth of the pan... verify the depth of the oil pump pickup ...


you should also include a purchase an IS-55E oil pump drive with a steel collar.. instead of the plastic one...

investment .. under 10 bucks for that one..  assurance that is won't break... priceless..


there are probably around 20 different pumps right now for small blocks..

stock.. high volume .. hi vol and high pressure...  billet...  its almost endless..

how deep is your pan where the oil pump screen sits????  

Ravoll Ravoll
V-6 Camaros rule! | Posts: 85 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 04/19/13
01:01 AM

Yeah,it will take a while with a drill.With my high speed /high torque AEG it still took about 20 minutes before all my lifters started sending oil up to the rockers.
80 lbs of oil pressure with the original pump tells me it's not "original".Not stock anyway.It's probably already a high flow unit.  
The older I get,the faster I was.

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 04/19/13
04:25 PM

You need to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. (PLEASE Note) if you are using an older block. There is a 1/16"-1/8" pipe plug in the front of the engine block. Just under the R/Side of the intake manifold. You can tap into that. I would tap into that and let the oil bleed out for a few seconds before installing the gauge. In-case there is is dirt under the pipe plug. You will only ruin your new gauge". (Sitting in the car). It doesn't matter no fancy gauge. Just put it away for your next build...The big thing is getting that RPM up over 2,000RPM quickly. "You don't want to keep restarting the engine it's NO GOOD for the Cam".... Thats the key that pushes the air through the system and the oil in.
  Running it 3-5 seconds I'm pretty sure you didn't hurt anything...
If you didn't preprime the engine as Ravoll says it can take a awhile.
  If you preprime the engine, and run the drill slow for awhile you will hear the air thats trapped in the oiling system. It gurrgles and coughs and makes a heck of a racket. But when the oil gets through the oiling system that goes away. Cool
  Before you start it up again. Set your base timing, and make sure the carb has gas in the bowls. Bring it up to 2,000RPM and do a CAM BREAK IN. Follow the Cam makers directions for the cam break-in...Thats if you used a Hydraulic and/or Solid cam.
PLEASE NOTE: If you have an old distributor you can make a priming tool really easily.
1.Take the gear off the shaft. Knock out the roll pin...
2.Remove all the electric component parts from the top of the distributor. There you have it.... Grin  Cool
  ONE OTHER THING WHEN YOU PREPRIME THE ENGINE, DON'T USE A $5.00 DRILL. It will kill it.....

Bob