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70 CHEVELLE TRUNK LEAK DISEASE

  
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70 CHEVELLE TRUNK LEAK DISEASE

 
wally0143 wally0143
My first time was in a Chevy | Posts: 186 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 03/13/13
03:52 PM

I have a restored 70 Malibu. I have a leak coming from the vinyl top trim just above the trunk lid. The water drips into the trunk from around the mounting posts for the trim. some are screwed in and some are riveted. The filler panel is new, and the back glass has been resealed. Is there any kind of gasket that I can use to seal the holes the screws go in as they are being installed? any help is appreciated!  
Nobody knows everything but everybody knows something

Ravoll Ravoll
V-6 Camaros rule! | Posts: 85 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/13/13
04:35 PM

Maybe use a bit of RTV sealant on the screw threads,and clean up any mess with a little vinegar before it sets.It could also be water getting under the moldings and leaking in somewhere other that the screw holes.

It's not the "correct" restoration method ,I know,and you will have to remove the moldings, but I glued all my window trim on with a compound called Terokal 9225,from Henkel,a branch of Loctite.It's really a body adhesive but works great for keeping water and dirt out from under the moldings, and keeps em from rattling in the wind. After it sets you can carefully trim any excess and run the screws back in for appearance.

Beware:If you do this take your time,tape your moldings good ,and mask off the adjacent areas...this stuff is permanent, and you don't want it on the paint,or your fingers.One drawback is you'll never get the trim off again in one piece.  
The older I get,the faster I was.

waynep71222 waynep71222
My first time was in a Chevy | Posts: 218 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 03/13/13
09:38 PM

you might also think about something like a short scrap of window weld ribbon.. you could get some end of the roll from a windshield shop if you don't have any..  you could wad up a piece and stick it on the where the screws stick thru..

some HIGH QUALITY clear silicone to seal the top molding top and bottom..  is what most top shops put in..... just a tiny bead  after cleaning the area with a tooth brush or detail brush..

a detail brush is a short bristle paint brush..  3/8 thick   1 1/2 wide.. but the bristles are only half an inch long... this is used to get the wax residue from the cracks and around trim on cars..

paint stores use it for spatter effect  painter dip it into a shallow puddle of paint and run their finger across it to throw dots of paint..  

wally0143 wally0143
My first time was in a Chevy | Posts: 186 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 03/14/13
01:58 PM

I like your idea, Wayne. I did notice that the corner molding screws had this stuff on them prior to the resto. How hard is it to remove the trim? I want to do something on BOTH sides. Is there a special tool to unhooh it from the mounts? Its the stainless trim that runs along the vinyl top edge directly above the trunk. I haven't restored the trunk yet due to this leak, and it now has a spot of rust eating through, so I'm hot to trot on this!!  
Nobody knows everything but everybody knows something

wally0143 wally0143
My first time was in a Chevy | Posts: 186 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 03/14/13
01:58 PM

I like your idea, Wayne. I did notice that the corner molding screws had this stuff on them prior to the resto. How hard is it to remove the trim? I want to do something on BOTH sides. Is there a special tool to unhooh it from the mounts? Its the stainless trim that runs along the vinyl top edge directly above the trunk. I haven't restored the trunk yet due to this leak, and it now has a spot of rust eating through, so I'm hot to trot on this!!  
Nobody knows everything but everybody knows something

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 03/15/13
06:27 AM

+1 Ravoll

There is a black weather adhesive that 3-M makes. (They also have yellow).
Any place where the nipples go through the body just add a Dab of the adhesive.
 
  Back in the day. I had a 1970 Plymouth Duster. The trunk leaked all the time. The dealer removed the tire well plug so the water would drain. (Some fix) Even in 1970 the techs had their HUA's.
  I found the problem. Where the body panels came together there was a very small gap under the weather seal. When it rained hard the water would puddle, and it backed up.
  We had sealers back then but maybe (1) Color RTV Blue...lol...Paint didn't stick...lol...
  Between them along the trunk drain rails. The gaps were never straight as the cars manufactured today. (When cars are restored today of that Circa the fender, door, trunk and hood gaps are too perfect).

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 03/15/13
06:41 AM

I have to add this. With the horse power our engines made back then. They used lead at the factory to seal seams. Anywhere there was a body joint. I use to watch the body guys back then melt the lead and with wooden spoons mold those seams. Anyway...

I also had a 1965 Mercury Comet Cyclone. 271/289 Nasty little car. One day I was washing it and I noticed that where the rear window came down to the area between the trunk, there were small seam lines, that had cracked, "they didn't leak water", and the paint had small cracks in it also. FoMoCo fixed it once.
  My point the horse power these little engine produced, and what bite we could get the rear tires to hook up. It caused these small fractures in the body seams.  The factory guys said it was because we had stiffened the rear end portion, with better shocks, tieing the frame together, and with a 7" Pie Drag Slick we were causing the problems. We also clamped the rear springs together.
  Anyway thanks for listening.... We had our fun back in the day.If we had today's technology? One would ponder to ask how many of us would not be here today....To tell these little stories... Grin  Cool

Bob