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new cam and lifters still ticks

  
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new cam and lifters still ticks

 
88silverado350 88silverado350
I love my Chevy Chevette! | Posts: 2 | Joined: 10/12
Posted: 10/07/12
12:01 PM

hello im new to this forum. but i have a few questians about the 350 in my truck if anyone will help PLS.My friend and i just put a new cam and lifters (stock cam size) in my truck. the issue before was the # 8 was tickin really bad from wore out lifters and maybe cam from poor maintiance  from the previce owner. anyways we did the new cam etc. adjusted the lifters properly but it still has a tick on the same #8 side. it comes and goes when it is at idle but put it under a load and it is there. everything else seems fine with the motor. good oil pressure etc. i had a friend tell me that the rocker arm stud maybe trying to back out or has. can anyone give me input or help pls.  

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy | Posts: 612 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 10/07/12
04:24 PM

if the rocker stud is backing out,...usually youll see a shiney area around the very bottom of the stud where it goes into the head.   thats the fresh metal coming up/out.      an exhaust leak can sometimes sound like a TICK.       you might try useing a mechanics stethascope to isolate the noise.      just throwing a few ideas around for you.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/07/12
07:32 PM

88silverado350 welcome to Super Chevy:

I'm going to assume your new cam was broken in properly.

Things you'll want to check before taking your engine down the street.

1.Check the oil pressure, Low oil pressure can play a big part in a lifter/or lifters not pumping up.
2.Check the bottom of #8 rocker arms for excessive wear on the valve stem side
3.Make sure that #8 valves move freely. Push down the intake/exhaust check to see if they are hanging up or are very hard to push down.
4.Check the rocker arms 0n#8 to see if they are cracked or have excessive trunnion wear. If you have (2) newer rocker armsreplace them both
5.This is a far fetched thing to possibly cause the tick. I have seen the rocker arms that are actually hitting the valve cover, Check the valve cover for any maeks of the rocker arm hitting the valve cover. If there is you can dlue (2) valve cover gaskets together.
5A.Check the rocker arm studs for any excessive wear at the trunnion, check just check any of the studs,rocker arms,retainera, top of the valve stems for being hammered or flat on the top any part of #8 valve stems. Confused  
5B. If everything checks out "Okay" please follow the instructions below.....
5C.The valve springs are weak on Cylinder #8 and not returning fast enough
6.This is an old trick from days gone by. Add 1 quart of "FRESH-CLEAN" (Not Used) transmission oil to to the crank case. You can remove the oil filter and let it drain. Then add the quart to the crank case. It can be Dexron ? or FoMoCo Type F. (THIS WILL NOT HARM YOUR ENGINE IN ANY WAY).

The transmission oil is a very high detergent oil. If your engine has had poor maintainence the trans oil will help dissolve any clumps of dried up old oil. It's an old trick to help free up a stuck valve lifters. But check all the other problems I listed above first. You can run the transmission fuid for 3,000 miles or until your next oil change.(YOU MAY GET GUYS TELLING YOU TO USE MARVEL MYSTERY OIL)you can but the marvel mystery oil is not a lubricant. If you have any questions just ask...Good Luck... Grin  Grin  Cool

Bob  

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy | Posts: 612 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 10/08/12
06:48 AM

thats a good tip Bob.   i put a small amount of type-f in my oil every now and then to keep the motor clean.          i saw you mention the rockers hitting the valvecovers and it reminded me of an old story.   i was working on this guys house years ago and he was just getting this bad-azz mustang going in his garage.  sounded real good, mega lumpy cam.   long story short, he put the valvecovers on and started it up.  i heard all this ticking and started seeing little dings poping up on the valvecovers.   we all just kinda laughed about it.   he bought some tall covers the next day, problem solved. Grin  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/08/12
08:02 AM

Yeah thanks for the ATTA-Boy Joe.

I built an engine for a fair weathered friend. He purchased a spare engine. This was before crate engines, the targets were here but had a bad reputation, and being made in Mexico. Mid 1970's...I didn't have to do any of the bull work. I went through. I ordered the parts for it. He wanted 1.6 long slot rockers. It was going back in his Blazer just a swap.

Well some after market rocker arms that were produced thicker? Some hit the valve cover.During this engine build he became a really PITA. I said I'm gonna fix his arz.I went to my buddies garage. I put my distributor in got 50 PSI oil pressure. This was perfect.

The engine fired right up, and the normal lifter pump up noise was gone. Now it sounds like a bearing rap. Now he's running around as you can only imagine. I said to him how much oil press. he said 70PSI, I said wheres the water temp. he said 180*.I shrugged my shoulders, then what's the problem. I said let it run. If there was something wrong it would have locked up by now. (now I had clued my buddie Gary in)There was still half of them that were still making noise, all the exhaust valves. I said to Gary go tell him, before he has a stroke. So I doubled the valve cover gaskets. Noise gone...I may have told you that story before.

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/08/12
08:18 AM

Good deal Joe. Don't use Marvel Mystery oil. It's not a lubricant. Plus under high engine oil temps it will evaporate. Dave my Dyno guy and I have done some test on it.

If you have a hot plate heat a few oz. of trans oil. to 190*f.

Now do the same with Marvel. You'll see it smoke a little, and thats the Marvel breaking down. The trans oil won't do that.

Putting it in your gas tank. I never ran tests on it. A pint of trans oil in 16 gallons of gas will disappear also. There maybe a trace element somewhere... Grin  Cool

I can only tell you what tests I've done Joe. Or what crazy Dave my dyno guy comes up with. We have the data to back it up. We don't tell everything.

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/08/12
09:15 AM

Icon Quoteredneckjoe69:
if the rocker stud is backing out,...usually youll see a shiney area around the very bottom of the stud where it goes into the head.   thats the fresh metal coming up/out.      an exhaust leak can sometimes sound like a TICK.       you might try useing a mechanics stethascope to isolate the noise.      just throwing a few ideas around for you.

Now thats a very good tip Joe:

The exhaust leak could deffinetly sound like a like a lifter ticking away.

The guy that blew the #1 cylinder completly off his engine. Had an exhaust leak that sounded like a rod knock. With open headers you could hear it. So you can imagine how loud it was... Crazy

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/09/12
01:01 AM

Noone has mentioned Chris Econamaki:
       Born October 15,1920 Died September 28,2012. He was 91 years old

Dean of American Motorsports Journalists. He was the owner  
and Editor of National Speed Sport News.

May he rest in peace, your up there with good company.
I guess you can say at 91 Chris had a good life...  

88silverado350 88silverado350
I love my Chevy Chevette! | Posts: 2 | Joined: 10/12
Posted: 10/10/12
06:15 PM

thanks guys for ur help. i know that it is defintly not an exhast leak cause we just put new gaskets for the headers. another friend of mine. said that we should drill and tap the head for a threaded stud any info on that? Confused  

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy | Posts: 612 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 10/11/12
05:02 AM

i would probably just let a machine shop do it.  but you can do it yourself.  dont use a cheap tap, dont want it to break off in the hole.   dont forget you have to press the studs out.      somebody used to sell a kit for doing this.  it came with a tool for pressing the studs out and the correct tap.  sorry, i cant remember theyre name.            theres also the option of pinning the studs.    


  i find it hard to believe you need screw-in studs with a stock cam, unless you beat the krap out of it.  have you re-adjusted the rockers?   i would also check for a broken valvespring.  again, if you can look at the bottom of the studs and look for shiny, fresh metal.  thats a sign that the stud is being yanked out.  if it is coming loose,....you can tighten up on the rocker and in no time it will pull out more. Frown    

  even with new header gaskets youll probably need to re-tighten the bolts a few times because of the heat cycleing.   its pretty common for them to need re-torqueing.        let us know what you find out.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/11/12
08:59 PM

How about trying this old school Drag Racer's Trick

Tools needed. #21 Drill Bit, or a 5/32 Drill Bit
             10/32 tap OXY/ACETALYNE TORCH
             BRASS HAMMER,SHOP VACUUM Confused

1.With an OXY/ACETALYNE torch, it has more heat at the tip
2.Install an extra nut on the rocker arm stud, to protect the threads
3.Heat the STUD BOSS as close to to base as possible
4.While concentrating the heat on the STUD BASE.
5 With a BRASS HAMMER lightly tap the Rocker Arm Stud back down
6.With a #21or5/32 DRILL BITE. Approx.1/2"/.500 down from the Rocker ARM BOSS DRILL a hole as straight as possible, then with a 10/32 tap the drilled hole
7.NOT TO WORRY IF YOU DRILL THROUGH THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROCKER STUD BOSS.
8.Try to get the allen head set screw flush with the Rocker Arm Boss Cool

This is an old school Drag Racer's way of pinning the Rocker Arm Studs back in the day. Before we had Screwed in Rocker Arm  Studs and guide plates. I was spinning small block valve trains to 7,000RPM. I never had a failure. So I think your (1) Rocker Arm won't pull up.Take your time, and you can resurect your stud.

You can have a shop vac running while your drilling or taping the hole. Wash the area with carb/brake, having it clean and dry it will clean up better. Grin

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Big Block power for the win | Posts: 940 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 10/13/12
10:54 AM

I guess we never help anyone on this site. But if they don't get an answer or hear from this Forum they are already writing in bitching. If we do we never hear from them either way....I'm really thinking about leaving this site.

    How hard can it be to post an answer. We do this because we enjoy our hobby, and the young men and woman of today will be us tomorrow.
    We don't get paid to help, we put alot of time into sometime very complicated problems. There are questions that sometime only an "old-gear head" like myslf can help answer. It may not be the answer you were looking for, and it may not be the easy way out of a problem. Then tell us that. Maybe you don't quit understand the answeror you don't have the right tools to do repair then tell us.

  I don't want a parade. I have over 45+ years doing this. Actually when I think back. I was 7 years old. My dad gave me the carb off his 1940 Indian Motorcycle, and said take this apart for me. That was 58 years ago...LOL... Grin  Cool  
  I remember the bench race sessions we had back in the day. It wasn't like today where you can write to a Forum and expect an answer in a day or two. Call Jeg's ao Summitracing, and you can have your parts for a few bucks more get your part over-night. Well Wayne, Dave, Matt, Joe, Tuff. I don't know how you guys feel about what I've said. I am only speaking for myself....I hope this isn't the norm from you younger people. I like technology. I wish I could be here in 25 years to see where technology has taken us...
  This post thats here with the problem of a stud pulling out. I have had this happen. I over revved a SBF because that cam we put in kept pulling...LOL... and when it came to an idle it was really making a loud ticking sound. At first we thought that it had broken a rocker arm. Very common back in the early days. Granted the studs should have been pinned before I took that 289 into the stratasphere. But thats we have learned. So we can pass on our corrected ways to help you young men and woman keep this hobby going. This is my 2 cents....

Bob