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PISTON REMOVAL
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po_choppa
My first time was in a Chevy
| Posts: 204
| Joined: 08/08
Posted: 10/08/09
02:24 PM
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I HAVE SOME PISTONS IN NEED TO PRESS OFF. ANY WAY I CAN DO THIS WITHOUT A PRESS. MY NEW PISTONS SAY TO HEAT THE PIN TO INSTALL. SO I WAS THINKING I SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO THE SAME TO REMOVE. ANY SUGGESTIONS.
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Pontiacman2
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy
| Posts: 670
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 10/08/09
02:46 PM
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Ya take them to a machine shop that way you don't damage the pistons or rods.
Professional hi-performance engine builder
Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.
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85_trans_am
My first time was in a Chevy
| Posts: 240
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 10/08/09
03:11 PM
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yeah i agree. the machine shop has a tool so the piston sits in a jig. this way the piston does not warp.
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po_choppa
My first time was in a Chevy
| Posts: 204
| Joined: 08/08
Posted: 10/08/09
03:23 PM
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OK, THANKS GUYS. I JUST CALLED THEM AND THEY ONLY CHARGE 20 BUCKS.
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Pontiacman2
Everything in my driveway’s a Chevy
| Posts: 670
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 10/08/09
04:41 PM
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No problem anytime.
Professional hi-performance engine builder
Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.
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waynep7122
V-6 Camaros rule!
| Posts: 79
| Joined: 08/09
Posted: 10/08/09
09:07 PM
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i know that he has probably had them pressed off...
warnings.. and explanations..
pressing press fit pistons off.. almost always damages the pistons.. there are a whole bunch of shapes of press dies... little half socket things.. that have been machined away... so when the press is forced against the pin .. the rod against the inside of the piston.. this is a tool so the piston is not bent or distorted..
most engine rebuilders and machine shops... just press them off with what ever tooling they think will work.. as nobody saves pistons.. if that is what you are planning.. they want to not damage the rods.....
as for heating the pin.. no... when assembling the pistons on the rods.. the small ends of the rods are heated to about 450F... with a dual head propane rod heater... even heat on both sides at the same time.. then the piston is set in a jig.. the pin depth adjusted... then the pin is oiled.. the hot end of the rod put in place and the pin shoved in to the stop with a push tool and held there for a few seconds till the small end of the rod contracts..
there is a chance with an welding torch.. that you could heat each side small end of the rod to shove the pin out..
the pin is only held tight in the small end of the rod.. if you expand it with some localized heat.. you may get the pin out.. but do it quick... the pin may expand also..
one thing... for those with floating pin pistons.. when installing the pin locks with the snap ring pliers.. do not compress the new snap ring till the ends touch.. it will bend and fall out while the engine is running..
compress the piston snap ring only enough to get it in the piston pin bore..
i have found that when the pin locks fall out.. the pin can move to the side.. and wear a groove in the cylinder wall... it will make the compression gauge do strange things.. like move part way stop then move more.. as the piston moves some air... and when the rings pass the grove.. you get compression back.. but not nearly enough..
crayons that melt at different temps are available at some welding stores and goodson.com...
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