383 running hot help tried everything!!

Ok let me try and explain all this.First this is in a Jeep CJ7.
383 Scat engine kit 5.75 rods,
bored .030
Forged SRP 7cc dish pistons.
Edelebrock E-Tec 200 Alum heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air gap intake.
MSD plug &play Dist.
timing 34 total
Lanati Voodoo Cam Flat tappet Voodoo Hyd Cam - Chevrolet Small Block 276/284
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 233/241
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .504/.525
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd.
Proform Electric water pump.
Flex alite electric fan 3300CFM.
Griffen 2 row 1 1/4 Radiator.
Predator Carb.
180 thermostat
1 1/2 block hugger headers going to 1 3/4 tractor pull style don't have yet.
Don't know HP and torque no Dyno around here.
Runs great like a scalded ape.
Will idle and drive around town all day long.
But under load will get hot. 230 is all I will let it go, when breaking in new cam running at 2000 took about 10 min.to get there,it will cool down fairly quick if you idle down,thats why town driving doesn't bother it.But highway at any thing over 2000 or about will get it hot,cooler weather just takes longer. Ok what I have tried,diferant water pumps,differant rad,mechanical fan and shrouds,differant Thermstats and none,Timing, fuel plugs burn brown, I have no bypass hoses, all intake plugs in, I am stumped. I don't know about bypass on water pump i know its not pluged off. Any help would be great. Up in the mountains last summer had to stop and let cool off, not RPMs just puling like under a heavy load motors wasn't bogging though, beats me.Running in the mud is hard to tell when I get on for to long will heat up, but if i take breaks it can keep going.  

What different kinds of aftermarket fans have you tried? I'm not real familiar with how much room you have in a jeep or the size of the radiator. I know that on the 90-95 ford taurus with the 3.8 liter, there was a 2 speed electric cooling fan that moves more air than pretty much any aftermarket fan I've ever heard of :P. It draws 31 amps on the high setting. Might be worth checking out. Also can you get a thermostat that opens a little sooner?  

try this. adjust  your timimg to about 38 or 39 degrees total. then run it all out down a straight road. after you do shut it down. then read the spark plugs to see if they are still were they need to be. not sure how a preditor carb works but the pricible should be the same. under a load the carb could be leaning out and the primary and or idle circute could be compesating when putting around.

also, is your fan in an shroud that takes up the rad. surface. if not look into that. might need to make one. and running your fan continuously while driving under a load to see if that helps. if it does try running an adjustible temp sensor. try a 25/75 coolant mix with some water wetter.

last but not least. check your cam to your cam sheet using a degree wheel and a dial indicator. your cam might be off a few degrees.  

Sounds like it my be a lean condition.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

ok..   with a proper mix of coolant with water... 50/50 to 75 coolant to 25 water... with a proper radiator cap... the boiling point should be over 250.. probably around 260...

is it leaking coolant out of the radiator overflow when it gets to 230?????    

does your radiator cap have the brass disc in the middle of the gasket that is spring loaded towards the gasket.. or does the little disc flop loose when you touch it...   change to one with a spring loaded disc...  

invest in a non contact temp gun...    they start at 20 bucks at autozone hanging in the tool isle...  40 to 70 bucks is what most people pay... this way.. you know exactly how hot the various parts actually are...      

have you tried a 192F stat...    the larger difference in temps makes keeping the system balanced is easier..  and most new cars run 192F stats...   corvettes don't even turn on their electric fan till 228 or 238 on many models...   so 230 is not really that hot for an engine..

but if the radiator is smaller that optimum... having a 180 stat will let the system get up to temps.. but ...  then the stat will stay open and get wider and wider... circulating the water faster and faster so it never slows down long enough in the radiator for the fan to take the heat out of the coolant..

i would think... that with an electric pump..  that a system bypass is necessary..

let me explain...

the water pump pushes coolant into the cylinder block...  around the cylinder walls..  up the back side of the heads.. forward through the heads.. to the intake water passage... blocked by the thermostat.. there is usually a bypass... so the coolant continues to circulate through the block and heads AND PAST THE closed THERMOSTAT.. going round and round picking up heat while the stat is closed...  when the coolant comes up to  temp.. the stat opens.. the coolant in the motor swaps places with the coolant in the radiator... and the stat closes...   the coolant in the motors starts picking up heat again.. the coolant in the radiator is stopped and the airflow through takes the heat out..   either ram air from driving or the cooling fans... until the coolant in the motor picks up enough heat again and the switch happens again...

there is a problem without a bypass circuit...   the heat is built up in the cylinders and the heads.. .. but that is a long way from the thermostat..   by the time the blocked coolant works its way to the thermostat to open it.. it is way too hot...   this forces the thermostat wide open..   this mixes the hot coolant in the block with the cooler coolant in the radiator and you have a run away cooling system..

i know this sounds weird... but i have been fixing cars for 30 years... and this is how it works...  

Ok let me answer some of these questions, and ask one. First how do you make a bypass in your system? and I have tried the 2 speed Ford fan have one didn't make any differance like I said will idle all day long,Timming have played with it all over the place,more ,less vac advance,never degreed either cam check the old one and right on the mark, and new set up same way,Predetor carbs are varible 330cfm to 950. no idle circuit, have had others check plugs like you said and with the Poredetor they say they look perfect. I was thinking of trying a restricter plate in Thermostat,coolant really hauls butt in there when it opens up,But the bypass thing is another I would like to know about,drilling hole in Therm where do you drill and I heard .;080,and also the hole on pass side waterpump, have no inlet on top of water pump for heater hose being electric.  

well it sounds like you've done everything. just got a few more Q's.
1. the temp gauge sensor, Where is it located on the intake or in the head.
2. have you tried a 195 or 190 T-stat
3. do you have and adjustible fan switch.  

I have tried 160 up to 195 have a 180 now no differance except when it opens,Temp guage is in intake,have used a infeared and check with guage ok, can't remember all the differant reading at spots like header heat but nothing abnormal or hot spots.
yes i have a adjustable fan switch or should I say had it won't work anymore so I just turn it on after thermostat opens, have played with differant settings and really didn't make any differance. engine been like since it was built 2.5 years ago.  

just looked back at what your motor has.

here is what you can try.
grab your cam sheet and degree your cam. just lineing the marks up may not work for this cam. the cam sheet should have an offset degree adjustment. for example my cam has a +4 degree offset so the marks are +4 degrees off from the marks. your going to need a keyed timing chain kit or a offset cam bushing kit, and a degrees wheel. if its not that far off its never hurts to check it.

the other thing with the temp gauge in the intake aposed to in the heads, you will get a higher temp reading out of the intake but not much.

and withe the electric water pump you might have the water flowing to much. try to put a restrictor plate to slow it down.

something else you can install is a bypass from the block to the T-stat housing and blocking the bypass hole under the passenger side of the water pump. this will slow the water going through motor and reduce the temp of the water going into the rad. so it can cool more efficant. you can plumb into the 1/4*18 holes down at the base of the block on both sides. you can run that to two 1/4*18 holes in the T-stat housing.

try that see what that does and post back. I out of ideas.  

just curious.....  does it ever blow the coolant out?????  230 if nor really that hot...  

so the drain holes in the block on both sides just run into t housing?  how does this slow down water to radiator, but you have to block hole under water pump for this to be effective? I am going to check but I think maybe my electric water pump on pass side may have this blocked already I think when I installed it the gasket was blank and the flange on WP is just blank no hole, but I will check. According to Edelebrock there is a bypass plug in front of t housing for 3/8 pipe for Vortec engines they sale a bypass kit,but mine is not a new block, early 70 4 bolt.could I plump the block bypass in to this or do I have to find a T housing with 2 sensor holes in it? Thanks for explaining.  

Ok this is what I did. I'm guessing you have an 010 cast block. I have one as well but it a 75. The 2 drain holes at the bottom of the block are 1/4*18 thread size. Now I'm running a -6an line on mine but I have a high flow mach. pump. you might want to scale it back to maybe a -4an line. if your not familer with (an lines) they are measued in 1/16 of an inch. So a -6an line is = to a 3/8 line and -4an line is = to 1/4 inch line. and so on. Ok now I ran 2 lines from the drain holes to the T-stat housing. I just got a aftermarket housing from the parts store and driled+tapped 2  1/4*18 holes in the sides. after that I ran the lines and installed fittings and was done.

Now to answer your Q. Its not going to slow the in the rad. that going to stay the same unless you install a restictor plate like you were saying. this mod is going to slow the water down in the block by routing cooler water around it. because the water at the bottom of the block is cooler than at the top.

this will start cooling the water down befor it hits the rad. letting the rad. cool more efficantly.  

i don't think the bypasses hooked to the thermostat housing.. above the thermostat will work...

you need something like this... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-17-58/?image=large

or putting in a outlet in the coolant passage of the intake would work.. as there is high pressure behind the thermostat.. most intakes have more than one threaded coolant port...   and back to the water pump threaded ports..

the idea is to keep coolant circulating through the block , heads and intake past the thermostat..  until it picks up enough heat to open the stat...  then it can swap coolant with the cooler stuff in the radiator...  then close again..  so the fan and ram air through the radiator can take some heat out of it...

i have also just drilled a 1/8 to 3/16 hole in the stat to let some coolant flow around and past the stat... without flowing so much it does not slow down in the radiator to cool it...  

O)k I under stand better. Well I am going to try a restrictor plate first, but I will a while can't fire the engine yet on my race Jeep just got the tranny in and have to build a crossmember and install transfer case.Yes AN fittings I call them JIC I have a Hyd. shop so hoses are easy did you know AN stood for Army Navy to have a uniform fitting back I think in WW2, a older man told me this. Thanks for all your help one way or another I will get it to cool.  

the main difference in the AN and JIC is jic has a 37 degree taper and AN has a 45 degree taper. just in case anyone is wondering.