vette 350 engine build adivce please

i have a 79 corvette 350 block and a pair of Freshly rebuilt camel hump heads for a small block chevy with 1.94/1.50 stainless valves, Z28 valve springs,screw in studs, aluminum roller rocker arms 1.6, and some port work done. My block still has to be bored and honed so i dont know what the final bore will be but i would like some advice on cam and lifters. i wanted so install rollers to make brakeing in the engine i little quicker. I was going to try get some roller lifters out of a late model 350 from the local junk yard. will they work in my motor?  

hmmm still searching for the exact answer i see....

some of it is answered on the other thread you started next door..

there are a lot of variables...here.. the most important thing is to save the numbers matching corvette block and componants... so the car can be totally restored later...  makes the vettes worth more later...

have you searched the tech articals on the various magazine... they have built sbc's for the last 50 years +... there should be some info in there somewere... they even have specialized manuals on the sbc.,...  

now.. did the camel hump heads get hard seats so they can live with todays no lead fuels... and are they drilled on the ends so the 79 vette accessors will fit...

it might be easier to go to a later model roller block to properly install the roller cam..and lifters...  they will have the one piece seal and the smaller crank rear flange ... factory forged steel cranks are available from crank grinders.. they came out of trucks with stick shifts...


and as for using used roller lifters... some reman engines come with them.. they are taken apart, cleaned and tested for leakdown...  so as long as they checked, they should be ok.... the idea is to roll the lifter roller along a smooth surface and see if there is any roughness felt... this would show that the races have been damaged...      do not take apart a whole batch of lifters..  one at a time...as they are select fit assembled...  

I think the best way to go with this motor is to stroke it. there are some kits on ebay made buy scat and Raceparts that are well priced. I think i need to check out my motor and see if it is a one peace main seal that are crap, in which case i will sell my two blocks and hunt down a good block, i am hoping it is a cast # 3970010. A stroker motor has the kind of bottom end punch to the kidneys i am looking for. I think my heads on this motor will be a good combo, they are fully built and have accesory holes tapped. Does anyone know any tricks to improving your block? opening up oil passages and that kind of thing? And on the question of high nickel content blocks they are alot stronger. GM did not make all blocks like this to save manufacturing costs. I have heard of caddy motors that have over 100K on them to still show the crosshatch on the cylinder walls because caddy motors had high nickel content. But machining these blocks can cost alot in broken machining bits, thus GM only used them in cars and trucks that required more durable blocks. And a block like this would be perfect for a stroker or and perfomance street or track machine.  

your not supposed to reuse roller lifters unless (carefully inspected) a cam you can. You'll have to get a roller conversion kit which are quite pricey. sourcing a rollerblock from a junkyard etc. might be the way to go. your heads should make some power in a 350/383 and you should have tireburning power. I've been in old vette with a stockish 350 tall gearing it was already scary! headers along with exhaust should be done if not.
There a reputable venders that sell shortblock 350/383's for 900bucks that have produced 500hp reliably. What I'm saying is you don't have to go spends thousands and thousands for a full forged motor when a cheap motor can do the same thing for your powerlevel. One other thing is I'm not sure if those camels will make good power evenported? tryem and see there ported and ready to go. you'd have to ask around but there not to common in hotroding. In anycase you should be at the 430hp and ftlbs area which is right up there with today's vettes.383's commonly make 460hp and ftlbs with over 500 on a set of cnc ported afr's