whats the maxe displacement i can get out of a 355..also i know of many stroker combos. but can you put a 400 crank into a 305 or vice versa?  

A 355 with a 3-3/4 inch stroke (used by the 400) makes a 383. Lots of 383 stroker cranks are availably thru your local parts store, or from any hot rod catalog/on-line. SCAT, Wheeler and many others supply cranks, rods and complete kits from cast iron or steel to 4000 grade forged steel with journals ground for the 350 block.

A 400 crank in a 305 is also common. The 400 block is relieved to clear the rod as comes around, a 350 requires some moderate grinding off the bottom of the cylinder wall. A 305 has more water jacket down there and if one isn't careful you could open it up when grinding for rod clearance. so just enough .050 or so is just enough. 400 crank journals have to be turned down to 305/350 size or a intentionally built 383 crank and crank and kit can be used . That would make a long stroke small bore engine that typically ranges from 320 to 335 inches depending on bore. Like the 383 there is plenty of stuff out there with which to make this happen

Bogie  

how much power can i expect out of a stroker 305 with some good heads and decent cam etc...  

i take it no one has seen or heard of power ratings on a 334 stroker?  

The problem with stroking a 305 is you already have a long stroke/small bore engine, and with an even longer stroke you start to have issues with the rod/stroke ratio that cause the engine's rotating mass to basically fight itselfs to make power. The 305 is essentially a 350 crank in a 265 block.  

so think boring it out to 60 thousandths over will be more smarter than stroking it? big cam, nice heads and intake, it will make "ok" power.  

Overboring a 305 makes more sense than stroking it because of the internal physics.

Before giving advice on the cam and heads, I'd like to know what the motor's going in, what you want to get out of it.  

probbaly and s10, and to take it on the street and track occasioally.  

An overbored 305 with good heads and a moderate hydraulic roller cam with make plenty of power to put your S10 in the stratosphere. And at the track it'll run alright.  

ill probably run a hydraulic flat tappet though, cheaper for parts, but im thinking around 510 lift on both sides and around 280 adv duration, what do you think, with some headers intake 600 cfm edelbrock...the heads are 64cc 1.94 1.50  

also what and estimate on the hp and tq this will make.  

First you need to deal with 2 engineering problems with the 305 going racing versus a hot street engine.

A racing engine by it's necessary nature will have to be a high RPM engine. The problem with a stroked 305 is piston speed, this goes up with stroke. The second problem is rod length. A long stroke engine needs a longer rod for best dynamics in terms of reduced piston skirt side loading and piston dwell time at TDC and BDC. this is hard to do with an SBC without resorting to an aftermarket raised cam, raised deck block.

Piston speed is (stroke x 2)(RPM)/12 or simplifed as (stroke)(RPM)/6. Generally it's considered that a street engine with cast crank and pistons, stock rings, pink rods, and factory fasteners should be limited to a piston speed of 3500 feet per minute max. A sturdy street/strip engine built foe a piston speed of 4000 feet per minute max would be built around a sonic tested block with at least .125 thick walls, forged crank, heavy duty aftermarket rods, gapless rings, forged pistons, ARP fasteners. A full up race engine for a piston speed of 5000 feet per second max would be built using a Rocket block or an aftermarket racing block, super forged, heat treated, stress releived, fully counterweighted, streamlined crankshaft, forged aluminum rods for a drag engine, super vacuum melt forged or billet rods. forged racing pistons not the usual TRW types, extremely thing gapless rings possibly one compression and one oil, crankcase main bearing girdle, aviation rated high tensile fasteners.

So the point of this is that long strokes quickly get you into high piston speeds which require exotic materials and processes to manage. So going completely crazy with a 305 just isn't the best way to spend money since even with the maximum overbore of .060 on a stock block, you still can't put enough valve size on the engine to feed it. A 280 degree with over .5 inch lift is asking a lot from factory parts and will net an engine that has nothing but top end horsepower in an RPM range where the parts are working on the ragged top end of their structural strength.

I think your money would be better spent on a reasonably built 350 or back off a full race 305 to something it's better able to survive.

Bogie

Bogie  

i want to make into a street motor thats all. possible? FOR A POTENT LITTLE MOTOR.  

the amount of power you can get from a long stroke,small bore engine is limited to ,well on a 305, is directly limited to bore size and head chamber size!whith a moderate cam, good heads and intake, you could expect;about 300 to 350 hp.the drawback to any small bore engine is lack of good torque down low in the rpm range.personaly i would rather push my 73 4400lb caprice than build any thing from a chevy 305.  

well i think with 410 gears a 2600 stahl, 305, will move a 2400 plb s10 pretty nicely on the street!!!!!